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Aikido Gun Boy
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 2.8 from 14
votes
Routes in Ragged Edges Area
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Aikido Gun Boy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Bodiddly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Chicken Eruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Crooked Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dense Dunce T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dense Pack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Diplomatic Immunity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dumptruck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Footloose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Getting Too Old for This S--t T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Go Ahead and Jump T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Go Ahead, Ok? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Kemosabe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lethal Weapon II T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Midheight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Midnight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Nightman Cometh, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ok Ok Ok! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Plan F T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Plan F - Early Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ragged Edges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Revoked T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sheep Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Theme Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tonto T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 36.15756, -115.49799 |
| FA: | Van Betten, Harrison, Meyers, Mamusia, 91 |
| Page Views: | 2,555 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Sep 25, 2009 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This thin, bold, andimpressive route lies just to the right of Chicken Eruptus and starts with a cool boulder problem up to a blocky section before delicate climbing is required to reach the first bolt. From there, its game on past three more bolts and some thin gear to a good ledge.
It seems some holds have broken and become smaller on this route in recent years- the route feels solid 5.12 now, with the moves going to the second bolt having gotten substantially harder. It would be wise, I think, to relegate this route to TR only for all but the strongest and boldest climbers out there.
Note: Gaining the second bolt will require the leader to be extremely bold and be willing to climb hard 5.11 above marginal, micro protection which, if it fails, will likely result in a groundfall from above 40'. This route is extremely dangerous.
Note: This route can be TR'd if you bail right at the break on Chicken. Bring 2 #3 Camalots and a nut for the anchor.
8 Comments