Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Van Betten, Harrison, Meyers, Mamusia, 91
Page Views: 1,537 total · 13/month
Shared By: J W on Sep 25, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This thin, bold, andimpressive route lies just to the right of Chicken Eruptus and starts with a cool boulder problem up to a blocky section before delicate climbing is required to reach the first bolt. From there, its game on past three more bolts and some thin gear to a good ledge.

It seems some holds have broken and become smaller on this route in recent years- the route feels solid 5.12 now, with the moves going to the second bolt having gotten substantially harder. It would be wise, I think, to relegate this route to TR only for all but the strongest and boldest climbers out there.

Note: Gaining the second bolt will require the leader to be extremely bold and be willing to climb hard 5.11 above marginal, micro protection which, if it fails, will likely result in a groundfall from above 40'. This route is extremely dangerous.

Note: This route can be TR'd if you bail right at the break on Chicken. Bring 2 #3 Camalots and a nut for the anchor.

Location

Start about 25' right of Ragged Edges, look for a bolt about 10-12' up on a white face, this is the route.

Protection

Thin gear- small and micro cams, nuts, plus four bolts. (2) #3 C4s or equivalent for the anchor.

Photos

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