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Routes in Ragged Edges Area

Aikido Gun Boy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Bodiddly T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chicken Eruptus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Crooked Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dense Dunce T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diplomatic Immunity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dumptruck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footloose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Getting Too Old for This S--t T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Go Ahead and Jump T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Go Ahead, Ok? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kemosabe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lethal Weapon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Midheight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Midnight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Nightman Cometh, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ok Ok Ok T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Plan F T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Plan F - first pitch (5.9) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ragged Edges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Revoked T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sheep Trail T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Theme Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tonto T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Van Betten, Harrison, Meyers, Mamusia, 91
Page Views: 1,318 total, 13/month
Shared By: John Wilder on Sep 25, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This thin, bold, andimpressive route lies just to the right of Chicken Eruptus and starts with a cool boulder problem up to a blocky section before delicate climbing is required to reach the first bolt. From there, its game on past three more bolts and some thin gear to a good ledge.

It seems some holds have broken and become smaller on this route in recent years- the route feels solid 5.12 now, with the moves going to the second bolt having gotten substantially harder. It would be wise, I think, to relegate this route to TR only for all but the strongest and boldest climbers out there.

Note: Gaining the second bolt will require the leader to be extremely bold and be willing to climb hard 5.11 above marginal, micro protection which, if it fails, will likely result in a groundfall from above 40'. This route is extremely dangerous.

Note: This route can be TR'd if you bail right at the break on Chicken. Bring 2 #3 Camalots and a nut for the anchor.

Location

Start about 25' right of Ragged Edges, look for a bolt about 10-12' up on a white face, this is the route.

Protection

Thin gear- small and micro cams, nuts, plus four bolts. (2) #3 C4s or equivalent for the anchor.

Photos

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Zach Alles
Snowmass, CO
 
Zach Alles   Snowmass, CO
 
Stellar Route. Fun moves, tricky but bomber pro. Ground fall if you fall after the first bolt; first pro after the first bolt was a slung chickenhead. I fell on a small dmm 3 peanut going to the second bolt which seemed pretty bomber. Definitely harder than 11+ immediately after the second bolt but really its only one or two moves to get back to 5.11 climbing. I pulled on a draw to get back on route to superb movement up top. I'd rate it 5.11+ A0 R or minimally solid 5.12 free or harder. I suck at climbing so who knows. The moves up top definitely justify the scary lower section. Would highly recommend the lead. Just don't fuck it up. (offsets and aliens were helpful) Happy Halloween! Nov 1, 2016
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
After trying this route on TR a couple of days ago I feel pretty confident in saying that key holds are now missing. It does not go the same way it did when I climbed this back in 2009. Mar 17, 2016
Josh Janes    
 
Due to the warnings in the route description I inspected this route on rappel - what I found was plenty of great gear and I had no qualms about pulling my rope and trying it on lead immediately. The 000 C3 seemed as good as such a piece can be, but regardless there is other solid gear just below and even off to the side if you really want it. Just wanted to provide another opinion.

However, I could not find a 5.11 way to climb it: the bolts make it a contrived 5.12 (broken holds?). The opening sequence is wonderful though. May 4, 2014
Pitty
Marbach
5.11+ X
Pitty   Marbach
5.11+ X
I almost dyed in this route - psychical did..... The first bolt is easy to clip with a side layback on good holds, but to reach the second bolt, you risk a death fall. The crux is reaching the second bolt and it is around 20 - to 25 feet upon the first bold but only 40 feet above ground.....
Once you reached and clipped the second bolt you have it, some more fine holds.....
For me: not to be climbed, absolutely dangerous! Apr 27, 2011
I'm not one to give much detailed info, but on this route the pieces pre-second bolt (there's a low bolt as well) are crucial to avoid proving your mortality in the event of a fall:

You can get an HB brassie in there with the 000, which, as Darren suggests with the bd tcu, you will also not want to test. Nov 18, 2009
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
In my opinion, I like the old school 11+ rating. However, it is noticeably harder than Spring Break, in Icebox. Chad is right getting to the first of the high bolts on this route is heady, and I protected it with a 000 BD C3, which looks really good, but on sandstone, I wouldn't want to find out the hard way if it worked or not. Sep 27, 2009
I think a good rule of thumb for this site should be only post a route if you've actually climbed it. From the ground up. At least on dangerous routes. This way when someone reads about it on this site and decides that he or she would like to climb it, they have substantial and honest route information and don't get themselves hurt. Aikido Gun boy is more like solid 12a old school power face climbing. And that's if it even goes the same way it did when these hardmen put it up. Personally I think that quite a few key holds in between the first and second bolt have snapped. Also, for the rack, you don't want a bunch of extra gack to tote up this rig so leave yourself a #3 and #2 Camalot for the anchor cuz anything smaller won't be solid. A handfull of aliens up to yellow + #'s 4,5,6 HB Offset for the climbing. As for the PG-13, it's full on R. If you blow clipping the first bolt and your gear holds, you'll be lucky if you just break your ankles on the low angle terrain you pawed up to get there. Sep 26, 2009