Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Musso, Rick Thompson
Page Views: 1,148 total · 8/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

From the ground, this excellent line looks like just another Cactus Cliff-style bolted crack squeeze job. There is no doubt this line encroaches on its ultra-classic neighbor "Family Jewels". However, the climbing is surprisingly good and the rock is excellent, making it a worthy addition.

Begin with some easy scrambling past two widely spaced bolts. As the wall steepens, long cranks between large, flat edges lead to a slight bulge and a splitter crack. The great thing about this line is that you can climb the business like a crack, with bomber jamsd and fingerlocks, or you can face climb right over the crack, with cool sidepull moves, great crimps and sinker pockets. A final bulge appears above a good ledge, just below the last bolt, where a hidden hold allows easy passage.

Location

This is immediately right of "Family Jewels", on the left end of The Vault.

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos