Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Musso, Rick Thompson
Page Views: 815 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


39 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

From the ground, this excellent line looks like just another Cactus Cliff-style bolted crack squeeze job. There is no doubt this line encroaches on its ultra-classic neighbor "Family Jewels". However, the climbing is surprisingly good and the rock is excellent, making it a worthy addition.

Begin with some easy scrambling past two widely spaced bolts. As the wall steepens, long cranks between large, flat edges lead to a slight bulge and a splitter crack. The great thing about this line is that you can climb the business like a crack, with bomber jamsd and fingerlocks, or you can face climb right over the crack, with cool sidepull moves, great crimps and sinker pockets. A final bulge appears above a good ledge, just below the last bolt, where a hidden hold allows easy passage.

Location

This is immediately right of "Family Jewels", on the left end of The Vault.

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.10c
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.10c
I really enjoyed this line. Could use some more traffic, but the crack moves are great! May 9, 2011
Nat T.
Fort Collins, CO
Nat T.   Fort Collins, CO
Loved this route, great crack to layback with a big mantle towards the top. Mar 24, 2013