Type: Sport
FA: Rick Thompson & Tim Ryan, 2002
Page Views: 2,192 total · 16/month
Shared By: Nathan Hollingsworth on Oct 12, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Description

This route has a hard start, some cool roof moves and then the business begins.

Location

This is near the top of the trail, to the right a little of Jewel of the Wild.

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Great route, steeper than your normal Shelf route. The start is the crux with some 11+ish moves up higher. Nov 23, 2008
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
Stellar route and in the shade from the morning till mid-late afternoon. There is a low crux between the 1st to 3rd bolts, then fun juggy climbing up till two other distinct cruxes. All around an excellent route and a new personal favorite at Shelf. May 9, 2011
This was a good route, and my personal opinion is this is a good route to break into 12s. The crux is definitely the start. The third bolt should not be clipped from the semi-slopey left hand, but it is safer to climb another one or two moves up toward the rest and then clip because less rope will be out for clipping and the holds are stellar. Sep 25, 2011
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Be thoroughly warmed up as the crux start requires you to pull hard. Comparable to its neighbor, Jewel of the Wild, maybe not as much pump though. I thought that it the start was pretty bouldery too compared to some other 12a's at Shelf. The top is a bit chossy but still cool finishing moves. Definitely worth getting on! Sep 26, 2013
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
FA: Rick Thompson & Tim Ryan, 2002. Oct 12, 2015
Robert Chappe
  5.12a PG13
Robert Chappe  
  5.12a PG13
Might be a good idea to have your belayer stand on the boulder at the base and keep you a little tight for the first 3 bolts. The crux is low, and the best clipping location for bolt 3 is a bit higher than you would like for how close the ground is.

Stellar route. Apr 27, 2016
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
  5.12a PG13
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
  5.12a PG13
Does anyone know anything about the bolt line directly out the roof out of the pod?

I followed the chalk, (and 11+ or so) climbing up and right out of the big pod after the boulder problem start.

There appears to be a direct option that looks both HARD and like it doesn't get climbed often. May 9, 2016
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Christian, the route you're asking about is called "Jewel of Denial" and is rated 12d/13a.

FA: Rick Thompson, 2003. Jun 28, 2016