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Routes in The Vault

14 Carats S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakfast in Bhopal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chip Off the Block S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enola Gay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ewetopia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Jewels S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fire It Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Stimulator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Follow Me Tuolumne S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gem, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Handyman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holiday In Cambodia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illusions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jewel Of The Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucy in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ministry of the Almighty Crimp S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Change S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Potato Chipper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Precious Stone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pubic Zirconium S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smoldering Horse Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sonic Youth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Splitting the Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stinger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stress Rehearsal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunrise Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Topaz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tottering into Antiquity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traditional Trickery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophan S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Yosemite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's the Combo? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Rick Thompson & Tim Ryan, 2002
Page Views: 2,016 total, 16/month
Shared By: Nathan Hollingsworth on Oct 12, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route has a hard start, some cool roof moves and then the business begins.

Location

This is near the top of the trail, to the right a little of Jewel of the Wild.

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos

Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Christian, the route you're asking about is called "Jewel of Denial" and is rated 12d/13a.

FA: Rick Thompson, 2003. Jun 28, 2016
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
  5.12a PG13
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
  5.12a PG13
Does anyone know anything about the bolt line directly out the roof out of the pod?

I followed the chalk, (and 11+ or so) climbing up and right out of the big pod after the boulder problem start.

There appears to be a direct option that looks both HARD and like it doesn't get climbed often. May 9, 2016
Robert Chappe
  5.12a PG13
Robert Chappe  
  5.12a PG13
Might be a good idea to have your belayer stand on the boulder at the base and keep you a little tight for the first 3 bolts. The crux is low, and the best clipping location for bolt 3 is a bit higher than you would like for how close the ground is.

Stellar route. Apr 27, 2016
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
FA: Rick Thompson & Tim Ryan, 2002. Oct 12, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Be thoroughly warmed up as the crux start requires you to pull hard. Comparable to its neighbor, Jewel of the Wild, maybe not as much pump though. I thought that it the start was pretty bouldery too compared to some other 12a's at Shelf. The top is a bit chossy but still cool finishing moves. Definitely worth getting on! Sep 26, 2013
This was a good route, and my personal opinion is this is a good route to break into 12s. The crux is definitely the start. The third bolt should not be clipped from the semi-slopey left hand, but it is safer to climb another one or two moves up toward the rest and then clip because less rope will be out for clipping and the holds are stellar. Sep 25, 2011
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
Stellar route and in the shade from the morning till mid-late afternoon. There is a low crux between the 1st to 3rd bolts, then fun juggy climbing up till two other distinct cruxes. All around an excellent route and a new personal favorite at Shelf. May 9, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Great route, steeper than your normal Shelf route. The start is the crux with some 11+ish moves up higher. Nov 23, 2008