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Routes in The Vault

14 Carats S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakfast in Bhopal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chip Off the Block S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enola Gay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ewetopia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Jewels S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fire It Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Stimulator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Follow Me Tuolumne S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gem, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Handyman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holiday In Cambodia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illusions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jewel Of The Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucy in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ministry of the Almighty Crimp S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Change S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Potato Chipper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Precious Stone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pubic Zirconium S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smoldering Horse Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sonic Youth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Splitting the Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stinger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stress Rehearsal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunrise Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Topaz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tottering into Antiquity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traditional Trickery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophan S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Yosemite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's the Combo? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,062 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jon Cannon on Sep 26, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun route with a high crux. The Sharp End guide says it's "gently overhanging," although I seem to recall most of it being slightly less than vertical. A bulge right at the crux, however, makes what would ordinarily be a somewhat technical right sidepull to a questionable pocket fairly burly.

Location

This is 10 feet left of Public Zirconium; about 60 feet right of where the trail reaches the base of the Vault.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
Really good route with good protection. Definitely worth doing, either as a goal in itself or as a warmup for other routes in the area. May 30, 2012
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
An excellent route with an entertaining crux. Oct 3, 2006
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Ok, here's the scoop on this one too - description as it will appear in the soon-to-be released updated guide:

Stress Rehearsal 10d ***FA: Rick Thompson & John Musso, 2002Splendid movement at a gently overhanging angle leads to a lonely little crux. While the name might have the faint of heart feelin' a bit queasy, even wishing for a top rope, there's no need for stressing over this perfectly protected clip up. The bolts are stacked, and the clips are clean - a fine lead if you're breaking into 10-hard.Begin just left of PZ and follow progressively entertaining moves along the crack as it first aims straight up, then, makes an abrupt left turn before weaving for the top again. Solve the stumper move at the final clip to gain the anchors. Seven clips. 50 feet

As for many other newbies - stay tuned and pick up a copy of the new guide.

Cheers,rico Mar 23, 2004