Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, John Musso, & Pat Thompson, 2002
Page Views: 1,922 total · 11/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Mar 11, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Per Rick Thompson: A trophy for the grade - pristine stone, cool moves and surprisingly exposed position combine to create one of Shelf's most fun-packed and high quality 9s. Start in a small, left-facing corner at the right edge of the inset panel and boulder the initial puzzle to gain a stance. Continue up, moving right when possible along a series of right-facing flakes to a finely positioned climax just shy of the anchors.

This is handy if you want to set up a TR on The Gem.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This is just left of The Gem.

Photos

Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
  5.9
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
  5.9
Hey Peter - Glad you enjoyed this and some of the other new additions at the Gem Wall. There are 15 or more new routes at this wall alone. My updated Shelf guide is off to production at the end of this week, and in should be available in 4-6 weeks so everyone will have access to information for more than a hundred new routes that have gone in at Cactus and other near-by cliffs over the past few years.

For clarification I'll reveal this ones' identity - here's the description as it will appear in the updated guide:

Chip Off the Block 9 ***FA: Rick Thompson, John Musso & Pat Thompson, 2002. A trophy for the grade - pristine stone, cool moves and surprisingly exposed position combine to create one of Shelf's most fun-packed and high quality 9s. Start in a small, left-facing corner at the right edge of the inset panel and boulder the initial puzzle to gain a stance. Continue up, moving right when possible along a series of right-facing flakes to a finely positioned climax just shy of the anchors. Seven clips. 55 feet.

You'll also note that many of the older Gem Wall routes have been re-equipped. So, say goodbye to many of those home-made hangers and sketchy anchor set-ups. Mar 23, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.9
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.9
Thanks for the info Rick. Mar 28, 2004
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
An excellent moderate, the crux comes early. Oct 5, 2006
Jeremy Franz
Berthoud, CO
Jeremy Franz   Berthoud, CO
I'm confused... Isn't this on the Gem wall??? Chip Off the Block May 3, 2009
Ashley Gann  
 
This climb has been entered twice, once here and once under the Gem Wall. Under the Gem Wall the name is incorrect though, its under "Chip Off the Block." Maybe one should be deleted? I entered it twice and was looking at it and got confused also! May 15, 2009
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
The 6th bolt is in a semi-detached flake that vibrates significantly. Pretty considerable lack of judgment on the FA's part. 2 feet to the left (on the left wall) is bomber rock. May 30, 2012