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Routes in The Vault

14 Carats S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakfast in Bhopal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chip Off the Block S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enola Gay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ewetopia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Jewels S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fire It Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Stimulator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Follow Me Tuolumne S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gem, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Handyman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holiday In Cambodia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illusions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jewel Of The Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucy in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ministry of the Almighty Crimp S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Change S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Potato Chipper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Precious Stone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pubic Zirconium S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smoldering Horse Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sonic Youth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Splitting the Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stinger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stress Rehearsal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunrise Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Topaz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tottering into Antiquity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traditional Trickery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophan S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Yosemite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's the Combo? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, John Musso, & Pat Thompson, 2002
Page Views: 1,796 total, 11/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Mar 11, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Per Rick Thompson: A trophy for the grade - pristine stone, cool moves and surprisingly exposed position combine to create one of Shelf's most fun-packed and high quality 9s. Start in a small, left-facing corner at the right edge of the inset panel and boulder the initial puzzle to gain a stance. Continue up, moving right when possible along a series of right-facing flakes to a finely positioned climax just shy of the anchors.

This is handy if you want to set up a TR on The Gem.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This is just left of The Gem.

Photos

slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
The 6th bolt is in a semi-detached flake that vibrates significantly. Pretty considerable lack of judgment on the FA's part. 2 feet to the left (on the left wall) is bomber rock. May 30, 2012
Ashley Gann  
 
This climb has been entered twice, once here and once under the Gem Wall. Under the Gem Wall the name is incorrect though, its under "Chip Off the Block." Maybe one should be deleted? I entered it twice and was looking at it and got confused also! May 15, 2009
Jeremy Franz
Berthoud, CO
Jeremy Franz   Berthoud, CO
I'm confused... Isn't this on the Gem wall??? Chip Off the Block May 3, 2009
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
An excellent moderate, the crux comes early. Oct 5, 2006
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
Thanks for the info Rick. Mar 28, 2004
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
  5.9
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
  5.9
Hey Peter - Glad you enjoyed this and some of the other new additions at the Gem Wall. There are 15 or more new routes at this wall alone. My updated Shelf guide is off to production at the end of this week, and in should be available in 4-6 weeks so everyone will have access to information for more than a hundred new routes that have gone in at Cactus and other near-by cliffs over the past few years.

For clarification I'll reveal this ones' identity - here's the description as it will appear in the updated guide:

Chip Off the Block 9 ***FA: Rick Thompson, John Musso & Pat Thompson, 2002. A trophy for the grade - pristine stone, cool moves and surprisingly exposed position combine to create one of Shelf's most fun-packed and high quality 9s. Start in a small, left-facing corner at the right edge of the inset panel and boulder the initial puzzle to gain a stance. Continue up, moving right when possible along a series of right-facing flakes to a finely positioned climax just shy of the anchors. Seven clips. 55 feet.

You'll also note that many of the older Gem Wall routes have been re-equipped. So, say goodbye to many of those home-made hangers and sketchy anchor set-ups. Mar 23, 2004