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Tottering into Antiquity [Suggest Change]
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.6 from 41
votes
Routes in The Vault
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14 Carats S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Breakfast in Bhopal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chip Off the Block S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Easy Money S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Enola Gay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ewetopia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Family Jewels S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Fire It Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flight Stimulator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Follow Me Tuolumne S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gem, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Handyman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Holiday In Cambodia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Illusions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jewel Of The Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lucy in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Make It Rain S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ministry of the Almighty Crimp S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pennies From Heaven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pocket Change S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Potato Chipper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Precious Stone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pubic Zirconium S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Smoldering Horse Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sonic Youth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Splitting the Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stinger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stress Rehearsal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sunrise Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Topaz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tottering into Antiquity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Traditional Trickery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tryptophan S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Welcome to Yosemite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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What's the Combo? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft |
| FA: | Rick Thompson & Johnny Musso, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 542 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Young on May 29, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Description [Suggest Change]
This route really has two variations, but they are considered different routes using the same bolts. The harder variation goes straight up on thin holds and is rated at solid 5.12. The route associated with the name "Tottering into Antiquity" goes right at the sixth bolt and attempts to maintain a contrived line that allows you to clip the bolts, but it does NOT go into the route "Chip Off the Block". These efforts alone afford the 5.10 rating. The only saving grace for this route is that the rock quality is high. You might as well just do "Chip Off the Block" though. The 5.12 variation looks HARD.
Location [Suggest Change]
The bolt line located to the right of "Fire It Up" and to the left of "Chip Off the Block".
Photos
- No Photos -
Los Alamos, NM
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Denver, CO
Ultimately I moved right and used the crack and face to get under the area between this and "Chip Off The Block" and going up to the jug. If you did fall, it would be pretty big with a bit of swing but should be clean. The clips were long from here though.
Were we on route? Probably not. It is really fun though with some good headiness. Mar 12, 2017