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Routes in The Vault

14 Carats S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakfast in Bhopal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chip Off the Block S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enola Gay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ewetopia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Jewels S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fire It Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Stimulator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Follow Me Tuolumne S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gem, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Handyman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holiday In Cambodia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illusions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jewel Of The Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucy in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ministry of the Almighty Crimp S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Change S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Potato Chipper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Precious Stone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pubic Zirconium S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smoldering Horse Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sonic Youth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Splitting the Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stinger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stress Rehearsal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunrise Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Topaz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tottering into Antiquity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traditional Trickery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophan S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Yosemite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's the Combo? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Rick Thompson & Johnny Musso, 2002
Page Views: 517 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jason Young on May 29, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route really has two variations, but they are considered different routes using the same bolts. The harder variation goes straight up on thin holds and is rated at solid 5.12. The route associated with the name "Tottering into Antiquity" goes right at the sixth bolt and attempts to maintain a contrived line that allows you to clip the bolts, but it does NOT go into the route "Chip Off the Block". These efforts alone afford the 5.10 rating. The only saving grace for this route is that the rock quality is high. You might as well just do "Chip Off the Block" though. The 5.12 variation looks HARD.

Location

The bolt line located to the right of "Fire It Up" and to the left of "Chip Off the Block".

Protection

Eight bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

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Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
 
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
 
This is a very confusing route. I am not sure what you consider on versus off at bolt 6 and 7. We tried going straight up the bolt line but couldn't pull the moves up to clip 8.

Ultimately I moved right and used the crack and face to get under the area between this and "Chip Off The Block" and going up to the jug. If you did fall, it would be pretty big with a bit of swing but should be clean. The clips were long from here though.

Were we on route? Probably not. It is really fun though with some good headiness. Mar 12, 2017
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
FA: Rick Thompson & Johnny Musso, 2002. Oct 12, 2015
Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Young   Los Alamos, NM
 
I agree. It looked great from the ground. Perhaps the lack of chalk up high should have clued me in. I've noticed way too many discrepancies and omissions in the Bob D. guide. Next time I won't let all the pretty pictures be the sole basis for buying a guidebook. May 30, 2012
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
The new Bob D. guidebook calls this a 3 star 11a, but I wouldn't agree. It is quite a bit easier and 1 to 2 stars. May 30, 2012