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Routes in The Vault

14 Carats S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakfast in Bhopal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chip Off the Block S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enola Gay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ewetopia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Jewels S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fire It Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Stimulator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Follow Me Tuolumne S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gem, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Handyman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holiday In Cambodia S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Illusions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jewel Of The Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucy in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Make It Rain S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ministry of the Almighty Crimp S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pennies From Heaven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Change S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Potato Chipper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Precious Stone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pubic Zirconium S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smoldering Horse Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sonic Youth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Splitting the Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stinger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stress Rehearsal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunrise Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Topaz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tottering into Antiquity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traditional Trickery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophan S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Yosemite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's the Combo? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad
FA: Alan Nelson, Alan Bartlett, 3/89
Page Views: 536 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Dec 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Back in the olden days, a couple of ex-Valley trads decided to check out the new-fangled sportclimbing craze at Shelf Road. Unfamiliar with the proper style and etiquette of this new flavor of convenience climbing when they stumbled upon a fine thin crack, they pulled out the gear and started at the bottom. The result was "Welcome to Yosemite", an ironic commentary on the new trends.

Bob and Carrie Robertson came along shortly thereafter and sprayed a line of bolts alongside the crack. Their creation, identical in all respects to the original route except for the protection system, was recorded in the guidebooks as "Welcome to Shelf Road".

Call it what you will, today's climber has a choice: place gear or clip bolts. If you want that extra spice and pump from rigging your protection, do it in the style of the original ascent. If all you want is another convenient tick, clip the bolts and think about what it would be like without them.

Wherever you stand on the issue of bolting up trad lines after the fact, please leave the fixed protection on this route fixed. But let's stick with the original name and let it be food for thought.

Protection

Standard rack to 2.5", or five bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

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