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14 Carats S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakfast in Bhopal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chip Off the Block S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enola Gay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ewetopia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Jewels S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fire It Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Stimulator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Follow Me Tuolumne S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Holiday In Cambodia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Lucy in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Change S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Potato Chipper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Precious Stone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pubic Zirconium S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smoldering Horse Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sonic Youth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Splitting the Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stinger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stress Rehearsal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunrise Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Topaz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tottering into Antiquity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traditional Trickery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophan S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Yosemite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's the Combo? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989
Page Views: 1,743 total, 16/month
Shared By: llamaface on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Sharp End guide says "perfect rock, perfect pockets, perfectly difficult", and I agree.

Follow pockets up to a small, left-facing corner to some awesome "cranking" over a small bulge. Finish with a really cool sequence at the second larger bulge. The anchors are over the second bulge.

Location

This is just left of Stress Rehearsal.

Protection

6 bolts.

Photos

Rebolted in 2015. Hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation today @ safeclimbing.org. Oct 25, 2015
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Doug's photo called to mind an opportunity I had to climb the Gem with Jim Garber shortly after the FA. Jim's flawless onsight was just so typical of him with his methodical, relaxed, deliberate style. His ability to clamp onto the tinest edges and hold on forever while he sussed out the coming sequence was just plain the coolest thing to observe. A brilliant moment in climbing. May 6, 2014
slim

  5.12c
slim    
  5.12c
Wow, what a route. The lower section is fairly temperature/humidity dependent - you want cool and dry for this section. The upper crux, even more so. Clipping the 4th bolt is really intense. From the ground, it doesn't look like much, but when you get up there, you will see what I mean. The climbing through this section is brilliant, and it seems like this 8 foot section is more like 20 feet. The last crux, God help you if you aren't tall with a good reach. You will need to go full beast mode here. May 4, 2014
Damon Vaughan
  5.12d
Damon Vaughan  
  5.12d
This route is awesome. Incredibly fingery start into a baffling crux up high. No matter how dialed I had the upper crux, it was at best 50/50, and when I sent I actually fell but caught myself on the underclings and sidewalk and was able to give it another go. Significantly harder than any other 12c I've tried at Shelf! Feb 17, 2014
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
@ Darryl... that is how I figure most of us might react... once you peel off the wall, realizing that it's gonna be a long and or close one... if you're belay isn't already on point, screaming isn't gonna improve their response. For me, a "Whoa" is all I can muster as I try to process what's to come. I think it might be linked to how we train to suppress our natural panic response. Sound thinking during these desperate situations is crucial. Love the historical stuff like this. Thanks! May 22, 2012
Just a bit of history here. I was belaying Dave on the run before he got the FA. Dave was pulling up rope at the bolt before the one at the bulge. He had already pulled a bite into his teeth and then had the full length of that 2nd pull that gets clipped into the draw (lotsa rope out). An inch before the clip, Dave is airborne and I'm doing fast calculus to determine if it's time to back up the ambulance. Out of Dave's mouth isn't a scream, but a moderate toned "Whoooooooa" and then he stops about 6 feet off the deck. Well, I just about soiled myself, and he was cool as a cucumber. Correct me if I'm wrong, Dave. Oct 27, 2009
Colin Kenneth
San Francisco, CA
Colin Kenneth   San Francisco, CA
Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989.

My first time on this my belayer tripped and pulled down HARD on the rope while I was in the sharp pockets just about to clip the (third?) bolt.

Great climb. Bad experience. Jul 19, 2009
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12d
Great route, aside from the fact that the anchor placement sucks. May 29, 2009
llamaface
Northglenn, CO
 
llamaface   Northglenn, CO
 
I couldn't believe this route wasn't posted. If anyone knows the FA I'll add.... Oct 19, 2008