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Routes in The Vault

14 Carats S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakfast in Bhopal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chip Off the Block S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enola Gay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ewetopia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Jewels S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fire It Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Stimulator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Follow Me Tuolumne S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gem, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Handyman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holiday In Cambodia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illusions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jewel Of The Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucy in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ministry of the Almighty Crimp S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Change S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Potato Chipper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Precious Stone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pubic Zirconium S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smoldering Horse Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sonic Youth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Splitting the Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stinger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stress Rehearsal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunrise Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Topaz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tottering into Antiquity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traditional Trickery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophan S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Yosemite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's the Combo? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1990
Page Views: 143 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

What's the Combo? is an enjoyable, sustained climb on a beautiful panel of white limestone. The movement is excellent & engaging, but some spooky rock and mild contrivance detract somewhat from the experience.

Begin up on a good ledge 3 feet off the ground. Easy scrambling along a detached flake leads to the business, 4-5 bolts of intense crimping & route finding, ending in a good shake at the obvious 6" undercling/flake. This section can be made easier (5.11) by using the left arete, but the climb is far more aesthetic & challenging without it.

Above the rest, 5.11- enduro crimps zig zag up the excellent headwall.

Location

This is immediately left of "Flight Simulator", it climbs the clean wall immediately right of the obvious, flared, chimnney feature that splits the lower half of the "14 Carats" Wall.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. It is easy to TR this from Flight Simulator.

Photos

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Derek Young
Denver, CO
  5.11c
Derek Young   Denver, CO
  5.11c
After o/s'ing this using the dihedral, I checked out the face panel for the 1st few bolts. Maybe something broke, but the face seemed solid 12/12+ compared to other 12s in the area. Since there is nothing between this and 14 Carats (is there?*), path of least resistance says jam or layback the dihedral. Easy clips/bolt hanging. There are stellar holds in there.

So here's my opinion... (for whatever it's worth) 11/11- if you use the dihedral, 12/12+ if you use the face panel. Maybe I just didn't see the holds on the face panel, but whoa.

  • (is there?) - you'll notice there is a set of anchors set a little higher up to the left, halfway between Combo and 14carats. Wussat 'bout? You suggesting a Turrr sesh?
Nov 6, 2016
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
Having done it a couple times now - it's pretty tedious to not use the side of the flake. I think overall with the top crux 11d is a pretty good compromise. Healthy runout to the anchor and the last few moves are not easy. Might want to have a plan for this as blowing this would probably be a 40 footer. Jun 4, 2012
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
I felt a little dirty when I did this route, but reading that Mono didn't even use the arete - now I feel filthy. Have to take a cold shower with a lot of soap, then go back and do it in better style. May 30, 2012