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Routes in The Vault

14 Carats S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Breakfast in Bhopal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chip Off the Block S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enola Gay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ewetopia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Jewels S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Fire It Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Stimulator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Follow Me Tuolumne S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gem, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Handyman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holiday In Cambodia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illusions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jewel Of The Wild S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucy in the Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ministry of the Almighty Crimp S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pocket Change S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Potato Chipper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Precious Stone S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pubic Zirconium S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Smoldering Horse Flesh S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sonic Youth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Splitting the Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stinger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stress Rehearsal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunrise Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Topaz S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tottering into Antiquity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traditional Trickery T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tryptophan S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Yosemite T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
What's the Combo? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brian Mullins
Page Views: 432 total, 3/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This stout line offers a brief but intense 35 feet of pocket cranking on beautiful rock. Begin up unprotected 5th class ledges to a big ledge and a belay bolt. There is no reason to belay up here, so clip this with a long sling. Difficult cranks between big, sloping crimps lead up the bulge right off the ledge. In the middle, a few, big pockets offer some respite before reaching a horizontal break with some small sharp crimps, and a lot of blank stone above. A super-long crank to a decent, 3-finger pocket is the key to this blank stretch. Bigger hand holds but scarce feet lead to the anchor.

Location

It is the next route right of Potato Chipper, on a north-facing, dihedral wall.

Protection

Smithsonian bolts protect the hard climbing above the ledge. You may want some gear for the 5th class 'approach'.

Photos

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Derek Young
Denver, CO
  5.11b
Derek Young   Denver, CO
  5.11b
Dig the line up there. The "approach" kinda blows. There's a bolt knee height when you gain the ledge, but I just 5th classed it and stick clipped the 1st on the panel. Was there any thought to bolt the line leading up to the ledge instead of the 5th class scramble? Looks like there could be something there worth doing up to the ledge. Nov 6, 2016