Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brian Mullins
Page Views: 471 total · 3/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This stout line offers a brief but intense 35 feet of pocket cranking on beautiful rock. Begin up unprotected 5th class ledges to a big ledge and a belay bolt. There is no reason to belay up here, so clip this with a long sling. Difficult cranks between big, sloping crimps lead up the bulge right off the ledge. In the middle, a few, big pockets offer some respite before reaching a horizontal break with some small sharp crimps, and a lot of blank stone above. A super-long crank to a decent, 3-finger pocket is the key to this blank stretch. Bigger hand holds but scarce feet lead to the anchor.

Location

It is the next route right of Potato Chipper, on a north-facing, dihedral wall.

Protection

Smithsonian bolts protect the hard climbing above the ledge. You may want some gear for the 5th class 'approach'.

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Derek Young
Denver, CO
  5.11b
Derek Young   Denver, CO
  5.11b
Dig the line up there. The "approach" kinda blows. There's a bolt knee height when you gain the ledge, but I just 5th classed it and stick clipped the 1st on the panel. Was there any thought to bolt the line leading up to the ledge instead of the 5th class scramble? Looks like there could be something there worth doing up to the ledge. Nov 6, 2016