Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Brian Mullins
Page Views: 829 total · 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This stout line offers a brief but intense 35 feet of pocket cranking on beautiful rock. Begin up unprotected 5th class ledges to a big ledge and a belay bolt. There is no reason to belay up here, so clip this with a long sling. Difficult cranks between big, sloping crimps lead up the bulge right off the ledge. In the middle, a few, big pockets offer some respite before reaching a horizontal break with some small sharp crimps, and a lot of blank stone above. A super-long crank to a decent, 3-finger pocket is the key to this blank stretch. Bigger hand holds but scarce feet lead to the anchor.

Location

It is the next route right of Potato Chipper, on a north-facing, dihedral wall.

Protection

Smithsonian bolts protect the hard climbing above the ledge. You may want some gear for the 5th class 'approach'.

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