Type: Sport
FA: Rick Thompson, 2003
Page Views: 393 total · 119/month
Shared By: Zack Smith on Feb 8, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This is the direct line out the double tiered roof system in the middle of the wall.

Climb the first 3 bolts of Eweoptia, get into the pod and relax, then head straight up to clear the roofs. I saw this route when on Ew... and thought it looked hard and intimidating, then I read the comments on that route's page where it is listed as 12d/13a. I got on it last weekend, and the whole time I was wondering where is the next set of cruxes after the boulder problem beginning? The second roof on the route has one or two tricky moves, some awesome holds, and good air. The last few bolts of the route are just the right amount of runout and easy but engaging. The route climbs almost to the top of the wall, climbing the final black overhang of the wall (also easier than it looks...).

I honestly think this route is better than its two neighbors as a whole - steeper, more fun moves, more committing, and yet barely harder, 12b? Let me know what you think! This thing definitely deserves more traffic!

Location

Climb the first three bolts of Ewetopia, and continue straight out the roof instead of breaking right to the crack.

Protection

8-9 bolts? + a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
This route has awesome jug hauling (other than the first 3 bolts) almost all the way to the top of the cliff! The crux is the first 3 bolts (shared with Ewetopia). This route felt easier to me than Jewel of the Wild or Ewetopia. Maybe it's in the 5.11 range then? Maybe 12a because of the first 3 bolts (as some say that is the crux of Ewetopia)? Certainly 12d/13a seems way off the mark. Either way, just make sure you get on this thing! Apr 5, 2019
Zack Smith
  5.12b
Zack Smith  
  5.12b
Matt, I found the rest of Ewetopia, after the 3rd bolt, to be a good bit easier than Jewel of Denial. Since they share the same intro crux, I would say JOD is at least the same as Ewetopia at 12-. Just my two cents. Apr 9, 2019
Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11d
Zach, I am 6'4", and that could possible make this climb feel easier for me than Ewetopia. Apr 12, 2019