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Routes in The Black Jack Boulder

Black Jack Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
Hour Glass Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Eyed Jack T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A R
Queen of Spades T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Rain Man V4- 6B
Space Between, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suicide Kings T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three of Clubs TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 581 total, 5/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Nov 20, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A fun cave hidden between a boulder and a small cave just behind the umbrella boulder. Fun route that's fairly short and may be soft for the grade Start in the cave move out to a flake and then hit the crux which is a fairly good crimp out right then pop up to the jug above your head, then hands up to good holds on top. Top out and jump off. Pretty straight forward when you see it. This is a newer route and the holds as still a little rough on your hands, this route is ultra fun because of the inverted climbing for a few moves.

"Today i cleaned a route that climbs to the right of this problem and meets up at the jug "finish hold"... My line continues straight up the boulder to a pretty moderate though dangerous top out (5.8 or 5.9)... So though i didn't intend it, i have created a finish to this problem if anyone wanted to climb it..." this was from Lee this is an option if you dont want to jump off after the drop off... Thanks lee


Other possible variations going out left from this problem...looks hard!!

Location

It's a cave hidden on the black jack boulder, get to it by walking by the umbrella boulder and instead of going down the hill walk straight past a birch tree and its right there.

Protection

Pad and spotter because you dont want to hit your head on the boulder,
and maybe a small carpet (to wipe your shoes on) because the landing may be muddy.

Photos

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matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Lee I added you comment into the description thanks for the info Sep 10, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Today i cleaned a route that climbs to the right of this problem and meets up at the jug "finish hold"... My line continues straight up the boulder to a pretty moderate though dangerous top out (5.8 or 5.9)... So though i didn't intend it, i have created a finish to this problem if anyone wanted to climb it... Sep 10, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Chad I agree man but I think it may be because we are tall I have seen people who are four inches shorter struggle, plus when I posted the route I didn't think I should challenge the FA's judgement, or Tim Kemple who wrote the guide book I got the rating from. But it certainly doesn't feel that hard to me either. May 5, 2009
Chad Laflamme
North Conway, NH
V3+
Chad Laflamme   North Conway, NH
V3+
Does not feel like even V-4 to me. Maybe its because I'm tall. seems 3-ish. But i'm no grading expert... May 5, 2009