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Areas in Black Jack Boulders

Beginners Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Behind Zig Zag Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Black Jack Boulder, The 5 / 0 / 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Block, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Blue Flag Trail Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Dill Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Eastern Bulge Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Entrance Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Fisher Block, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Headstone Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Inverted Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Long Slab Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Moat Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
New Age Block 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Ricochet Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Spragueasorus Boulder (aka Underworld Boulder) 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Twin Boulders, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Umbrella Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
West Black Jack - unsorted 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Zig Zag Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Elevation: 700 ft
GPS: 43.803, -71.842 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 55,140 total, 412/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 19, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

Scattered in the woods at the base of the hill, the Black Jack boulders offer some classic problems on great stone. The boulders start near the road and extend uphill almost to Waimea.

This area is complex as boulders lean upon boulders and caves abound. Take some time and explore this area and you will surely find some hidden classics as well as some first ascent potential. Must do problems include, but are not limited to: Zig Zag Crack V1, Umbrella Traverse V2, Black Jack Crack V2x, Spraguesorus V5, Pyramid Power V7, Satan on a Halfshell V10, and Satan's Choice V11.

The Black Jacks can be blissful on dry winter days, or torturous in the heat of summer. Since most of the boulders sit on or near lowlying marsh land, bug season arrives with a vengence in the Black Jacks.

Getting There

Park in the lot. DO NOT PARK ALONG THE ROAD. Walk along the road single file on the left, facing traffic, to telephone pole 37 and follow a well-worn trail uphill into the woods. At the first big boulder you see, follow the trail left, through the Black Jacks.
Or better yet, follow the graded path path from the small parking lot and take the Short Cut trail traversing the hillside west from the top of the wooden staircase which leads to the left side of the Main Cliff. Once past the midway boulder, don't head up the hill like going to Bonsai, but continue straight, under Monsters until you reach the Blackjack's Entrance boulder. This is only 5 minutes more and keeps you off the road, keeping the locals happy and you not run over. Plus you go by more great bouldering.

137 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Jack Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
Zig Zag Crack
Boulder
V2 5+
Moose Tracks
Boulder
V2 5+
The Umbrella Traverse
Boulder
V3 6A
Firestarter
Boulder
V4 6B
Up Into The Green Silence
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
Spragueasorus
Boulder
V6 7A
Child Prodigy
Boulder
V6 7A
Fisher Fissure
Boulder
V7- 7A+
Bobby's Arete
Boulder
V7 7A+
Bobby's Problem
Boulder
V8 7B
Pyramid Power
Boulder
V10 7C+
Satan on a Halfshell
Boulder
V10 7C+
Satan's Sister Sally
Boulder
V12 8A+
Satan's Choice
Boulder
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
Black Jack Crack
Trad, Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zig Zag Crack Zig Zag Boulder V1 5 Boulder
Moose Tracks Zig Zag Boulder V2 5+ Boulder
The Umbrella Traverse Umbrella Boulder V2 5+ Boulder
Firestarter Moat Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Up Into The Green Silence Fisher Block V4 6B Boulder
Spragueasorus Spragueasorus Boulder (aka Under… V5+ 6C+ Boulder
Child Prodigy Moat Boulder V6 7A Boulder
Fisher Fissure Fisher Block V6 7A Boulder
Bobby's Arete Entrance Boulders V7- 7A+ Boulder
Bobby's Problem Entrance Boulders V7 7A+ Boulder
Pyramid Power Spragueasorus Boulder (aka Under… V8 7B Boulder
Satan on a Halfshell Umbrella Boulder V10 7C+ Boulder
Satan's Sister Sally Umbrella Boulder V10 7C+ Boulder
Satan's Choice Spragueasorus Boulder (aka Under… V12 8A+ Boulder
Black Jack Crack Black Jack Boulder 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+ Trad, Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Black Jack Boulders »

Weather Averages

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Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Kevin Wang
Brooklyn, NY
Kevin Wang   Brooklyn, NY
Is there some sort of map for Black Jack Boulders out there? Something like the rest of the super cool rumney maps by Lee Hansche? Aug 18, 2017
It's always hard to find good V0's ... at any bouldering area. In my opinion. The formations do not usually work that way. Aug 14, 2017
Alright I am going to take you up on that and clean some this summer. I already spotted a few last time I was there. There is one to the left of Matt's Garden climb on the Ricochet boulder I think. Apr 29, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Put cookies, a bottle of beer or a doobie at the top of the climb? Scrub some quality easier routes. Apr 29, 2015
I love this area but I find it hard to bring weaker climbers here. Does anyone else notice the general lack of V0-1's here? Or at least quality ones? For instance I think all of the 1's on the Ricochet boulder are hard and seem more like 2's (Cilley Groove, Left/Right Tracks) Ziz Zag crack doesn't feel like a 1 until you've done it like 3-4 times. The only non highball 0 I can think of in the whole area is that low left arete on the Umbrella Boulder.

What do you guys usually do if you have a weaker climber with you here? Apr 29, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
For everyone who likes to winter boulder in Black Jack, I left a broom in the cave/hole to the right of the Umbrella Boulder. I plan on leaving it there for the duration of the winter and you are more than welcome to use it. I just ask that if you use it try not to break it and please put it back when you are done with it. Happy sending :) Dec 23, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Here are some video I found of Black Jack Bouldering, Enjoy!

youtube.com/user/niceporch#…

youtube.com/user/niceporch#…

youtube.com/user/niceporch#…

Rumney has some great bouldering that I personally dont think gets enough credit! Dec 20, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
To approach the BlackJacks it is better to take the Shortcut Trail than to walk along the road. That helps avoid friction with drivers on the small road. It is only slightly longer time wise and it also takes you right by the awesome boulders below Monsters. Take the main trail from the small parking lot running west parallel to the road (lots of boulders on the hillside above, below the Main cliff), and head up the wooden staircase like you are going to Armed and Dangerous. Break left before you get there following the blue flags and traverse the hillside above the 5.8 crag and below Monsters. The trail will pop you out right at the Entrance boulder at the beginning of the Blackjacks.

If you follow the trail uphill before you get to Monsters, you will come to the cool overhanging bouldering ledges to the left (along the trial from Venus), or go left there to the boulders above Monsters Jun 6, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I think it is divided up because it is much easier to navigate, if you look at how the pound is set up it is confusing to figure out where some of the problems are, it would be really nice if the pound was split up by boulders. Dec 15, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
it might have started because the Black Jack Boulder is like a mini crag... but i think it makes sense to break it down, makes it easy to navigate... would be great if someone would make a map of the boulders... Aug 22, 2008
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
Any reason the Blackjack's are divided up by specific boulder instead of considering the whole area one... um, area? Aug 22, 2008

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