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Elevation: 700 ft 213 m
GPS: 43.80288, -71.84167
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 290,814 total · 1,370/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 19, 2006
Admins: Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

Scattered in the woods at the base of the hill, the Black Jack boulders offer some classic problems on great stone. The boulders start near the road and extend uphill almost to Waimea.

This area is complex as boulders lean upon boulders and caves abound. Take some time and explore this area and you will surely find some hidden classics as well as some first ascent potential. Must do problems include, but are not limited to: Zig Zag Crack V1, Umbrella Traverse V2, Black Jack Crack V2x, Spraguesorus V5, Pyramid Power V7, Satan on a Halfshell V10, and Satan's Choice V11.

The Black Jacks can be blissful on dry winter days, or torturous in the heat of summer. Since most of the boulders sit on or near lowlying marsh land, bug season arrives with a vengence in the Black Jacks.

Getting There Suggest change

Park in the lot. DO NOT PARK ALONG THE ROAD. Walk along the road single file on the left, facing traffic, to telephone pole 37 and follow a well-worn trail uphill into the woods. At the first big boulder you see, follow the trail left, through the Black Jacks.
Or better yet, follow the graded path path from the small parking lot and take the Short Cut trail traversing the hillside west from the top of the wooden staircase which leads to the left side of the Main Cliff. Once past the midway boulder, don't head up the hill like going to Bonsai, but continue straight, under Monsters until you reach the Blackjack's Entrance boulder. This is only 5 minutes more and keeps you off the road, keeping the locals happy and you not run over. Plus you go by more great bouldering.

297 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Jack Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 297
Zig Zag Crack
Boulder
V5- 6C
 5
Spirit Animal
Boulder
V5 6C
 113
Spragueasorus
Boulder
V5 6C R
 7
Stopping the Flow of Time
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 16
Fauteux Pocket Problem
Boulder
V6 7A
 90
Bobby's Problem
Boulder
V6 7A
 9
Opaque
Boulder
V6 7A
 21
The Bootleg
Boulder
V6 7A
 29
Pulsating Core
Boulder
V6+ 7A
 17
Fisher Fissure
Boulder
V7 7A+ PG13
 14
Matterhorn
Boulder
V8 7B
 68
Pyramid Power
Boulder
V10 7C+
 12
Satan on a Halfshell
Boulder
V10 7C+
 20
Satan's Sister Sally
Boulder
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
 109
Black Jack Crack
Trad, Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zig Zag Crack Zig Zag Area > Zig Zag Boulder
 297
V1 5 Boulder
Spirit Animal Upper Black Jacks > Vader Boulders > Little Bit of Peace Area
 5
V5- 6C Boulder
Spragueasorus Zig Zag Area > Spragueasorus Boulder…
 113
V5 6C Boulder
Stopping the Flow of Time Upper Black Jacks > Vader Boulders > Beta Bunch
 7
V5 6C R Boulder
Fauteux Pocket Problem Western Black J… > Pocket Boulder
 16
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
Bobby's Problem Entrance Boulders > Bobby's Boulder
 90
V6 7A Boulder
Opaque Upper Black Jacks > Hatchet Area
 9
V6 7A Boulder
The Bootleg Upper Black Jacks > Prohibition Boulder
 21
V6 7A Boulder
Pulsating Core Upper Black Jacks > Core Cluster
 29
V6 7A Boulder
Fisher Fissure Zig Zag Area > Fisher Block
 17
V6+ 7A Boulder
Matterhorn Upper Black Jacks > Vader Boulders > Beta Bunch
 14
V7 7A+ PG13 Boulder
Pyramid Power Zig Zag Area > Spragueasorus Boulder…
 68
V8 7B Boulder
Satan on a Halfshell Umbrella Area > Umbrella Boulder
 12
V10 7C+ Boulder
Satan's Sister Sally Umbrella Area > Umbrella Boulder
 20
V10 7C+ Boulder
Black Jack Crack Black Jack Boul… > Black Jack Boulder
 109
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+ Trad, Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Black Jack Boulders »

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