Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Black Jack Boulder

Black Jack Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
Hour Glass Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Eyed Jack T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A R
Queen of Spades T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Rain Man V4- 6B
Space Between, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suicide Kings T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three of Clubs TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 9/10/09
Page Views: 543 total · 5/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 10, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Highball boulder problem? Scary short trad climb? Fun top rope? its up to you.

This line climbs just right of a boulder problem called Rain Man which comes out of a damp cave facing the Umbrella Boulder. While the crux is a little awkward and not too memorable the top 2/3 of it is really fun and serves as a convenient if a little nerve racking moderate finish to it's lowball boulder problem neighbor.

Start by cruxing out up a shallow corner/ramp feature on sharp rock this section is a bit height dependent as you are moving toward a jug up and left. The sooner you can reach it the easier the route will feel. After you get the jug climb up the face to good holds and a small stance. after a nice short break here climb up and slightly left to a good spot to mantel on to the top of the boulder. With a rope the top out isn't too bad at all but with a spotter and a pad way down there it could get your heart racing a bit.

Location

Just right and above the cave boulder problem Rain Man V4/5 facing the Umbrella Boulder.

Protection

Well it all depends on your style.
On Gear it doesnt take much maybe a cam or two. If you boulder it I'd say a few pads for the bottom and a steady nerve for the top out where falling isn't really an option.
TR it off good gear and trees on top of the boulder.

Photos

0 Comments

More About One Eyed Jack

Printer-Friendly Guide