One Eyed Jack
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British V3 YDS 6A Font R
| Type: | Trad, TR, Boulder, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 43.80288, -71.84167 |
| FA: | Lee Hansche 9/10/09 |
| Page Views: | 1,538 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Sep 10, 2009 |
| Admins: | Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Highball boulder problem? Scary short trad climb? Fun top rope? its up to you.
This line climbs just right of a boulder problem called Rain Man which comes out of a damp cave facing the Umbrella Boulder. While the crux is a little awkward and not too memorable the top 2/3 of it is really fun and serves as a convenient if a little nerve racking moderate finish to it's lowball boulder problem neighbor.
Start by cruxing out up a shallow corner/ramp feature on sharp rock this section is a bit height dependent as you are moving toward a jug up and left. The sooner you can reach it the easier the route will feel. After you get the jug climb up the face to good holds and a small stance. after a nice short break here climb up and slightly left to a good spot to mantel on to the top of the boulder. With a rope the top out isn't too bad at all but with a spotter and a pad way down there it could get your heart racing a bit.



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