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Routes in The Black Jack Boulder

Black Jack Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
Hour Glass Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Eyed Jack T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A R
Queen of Spades T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Rain Man V4- 6B
Space Between, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suicide Kings T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three of Clubs TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 734 total · 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 13, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Here is another route that will never be a Rumney classic but I'll be damned if there isn't some really fun climbing on it. If you like techy crimping on not too steep rock (just slightly overhung) go for it. It does earn its R rating due to thin gear in the middle but the cruxes have ample gear for sure and there's always the old toprope style.

Start on a low rock next to the base of the boulder lean out and grab the thin crimps and commit. You can step out on to good feet (the whole route has really good feet) before making a move to good holds. Enjoy sequency moves on possitive holds through the middle section of the climb. This is where the gear is thin, many options but nothing great, I found a number 2 stopper to work well in the thin vertical seam to the left. At the last obvious good holds reach up and place gear in the pod/crack above and crimp and footwork your way through the crux to the finger lock finish before manteling to the top. there are many ways to do this last section look around at all the holds and see what works for you. If you are on toprope you might use the pod/crack for your hands but on lead I recommend gear in it.

Location

The thin face and seam to the left of Black Jack Crack.

Protection

Thin nuts and cams.

I used a green C3 near the bottom (easily placed by leaning off of the boulder next to the climb), a #2 stopper in a thin seam around half way, and an orange TCU in the pod at the top.

there is a single bolt over the top.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Is this route called Eric's Arete in Tim Kemple's Bouldering Guide to New England? In Kemple's guide it is listed as V4... Just Curious. Sep 15, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
sounds like the right grade but it doesnt climb an arete...hmmm... Sep 15, 2009
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Picture anyone? Jul 14, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Just posted a topo for you... enjoy Jul 14, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Queen of Spades FA - Scott Stevenson 1990.

Eric's Arete is the now re-grown in arete to the left of Queen of Spades. It is very sketchy, highball/solo over a horrible landing. I would recommend a TR if you do it. Jul 15, 2012
S. Neoh  
Aptly named.
#2 stopper? Don't take a whipper on it! :) Jul 15, 2012

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