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Routes in The Black Jack Boulder

Black Jack Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
Hour Glass Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Eyed Jack T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A R
Queen of Spades T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Rain Man V4- 6B
Space Between, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suicide Kings T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three of Clubs TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Lee hansche and Lily Hallett 9/14/09
Page Views: 181 total, 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 14, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

I admit that some of the routes I've cleaned at Rumney amount to licking the bottom of the ice cream bowl. Though i enjoy them they hadn't been missed they were just waiting for someone who cared. This one I feel has Much more to offer the average climber. It is now the second best line on this rock and worth doing for sure either as a trad route a top rope or a moderate high ball problem with the hardest moves happening in the 1st 15 feet.

Climb the crack and ramp system up and left to a stance where you can place good gear and execute the fun top out.

Video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlBS72g77Zs

Location

As you walk in to the black jacks look behind the Umbrella Traverse boulder there are a couple of nasty old bolts on a blank face this route climbs an angling crack that follows a narrow ramp. Pretty obvious when you see it.

Protection

A couple cams and nuts.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
a few cams are helpful for sure... it doesnt eat up the nuts Nov 25, 2010
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
this there enough places for a full nut rack climb Nov 23, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
The tree is off to the side a bit... your best bet is to use Hand sized cams in the crack on top of the boulder... enjoy! Jun 8, 2010
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
is there anything to set a top rope up to.i thought i saw a tree Jun 6, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
If it is nice wed I will probably be getting on it so you will here from me, it looks sweet. Nov 10, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yup... crux in the first 10 ft or so... try to eye the gear from the ground as much as you can... the top out is easier to the left... have fun and tell me how it goes... Nov 10, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
lee i havent checked this out yet the day i planned on it got rained out and i havent gotten over here with the trad rack yet but before the snow falls for sure. the crux is at the bottom right? Nov 9, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Video of the route... you miss some of the crux which is down on the lower half but it gives you the idea...

youtube.com/watch?v=dlBS72g… Sep 16, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I used a hand sized piece in a funky but good spot about 10 feet up, a maybe #6 or #7 nut at about half way, and a red tcu worked perfectly just before the top... There are other options for sure, i aided up a ways when cleaning it and i got about 7 pieces in the first half of the route :)

if you climb it tell me how it goes for you... Sep 16, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
What size cams did you use? just a rough size if you dont mind sir Sep 15, 2009