Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Black Jack Boulder

Black Jack Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
Hour Glass Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Eyed Jack T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3 6A R
Queen of Spades T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Rain Man V4- 6B
Space Between, The TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Suicide Kings T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three of Clubs TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 365 total, 7/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 30, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

a few words: Pumpy, crimpy, tricky, loose, weird, obscure...

This is a very interesting route.
While the climbing is fine and even fun in parts it is very tricky logistically and that takes away from the route. Most would say it takes all of the fun out of it but i think that would be a bit much.

How can a TR be tricky logistically? Well normally top rope routes climb up but this one starts up the left side of the face, then at 15 feet or so it bangs a sharp right and traverses 25+ feet clear across the boulder to a crux sequence moving to the top right side of the boulder. There is a hard part on the lower left end and another on the upper right. Basically, the only way i feel it can be done safely is to rig the anchor on the right and try to find a directional piece somewhere in the traverse section.

When i tried it the other day i put my anchor right in the middle but i felt like if i fell low on the route i would swing in to the ground and on the upper crux my rope would be 10 feet straight out to my left causing a dangerous swing.

Location

Start up Suicide Kings for about 10 feet then head up and right to crimps and a long rail heading right. Follow the rail across the boulder to a hard sequence to the top.

Protection

top rope with careful rigging due to sharp edges and dangerous swings. A directional may be possible to make it safer.

Photos

Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Get well Eric, there were only a few of us, and now they'll really only be a couple of us. A few sounds way better! Oct 21, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
awwww man, really sorry to hear this.
I do have a few more obscurities to pick off but I'm getting close. I was about to start up Bonsai Pipeline the other day (as you requested) when I decided the top looked a bit wet but I will get on it soon...
Good luck with the arthritis man... I hope you can get back to it soon... Oct 9, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
Was this the last of all the obscure routes you have to do to climb them all?
I am a little jealous since my run at sending them all is over for now and maybe for good.
Just started doing rheumatoid arthritis this july and stopped climbing. I hope this shit will go away... Oct 7, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
So... I sent this one this evening...
Used two separate toprope set ups to protect the traverse.

My full review: DON'T BOTHER!!! Oct 6, 2015