All Locations > New Hampshire > Rumney > Rumney Bouldering > Black Jack Boul… > The Black Jack Boulder
Three of Clubs
Avg: 0 from 1 vote
|Type:||TR, 35 ft|
|Page Views:||373 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on May 30, 2013|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Descriptiona few words: Pumpy, crimpy, tricky, loose, weird, obscure...
This is a very interesting route.
While the climbing is fine and even fun in parts it is very tricky logistically and that takes away from the route. Most would say it takes all of the fun out of it but i think that would be a bit much.
How can a TR be tricky logistically? Well normally top rope routes climb up but this one starts up the left side of the face, then at 15 feet or so it bangs a sharp right and traverses 25+ feet clear across the boulder to a crux sequence moving to the top right side of the boulder. There is a hard part on the lower left end and another on the upper right. Basically, the only way i feel it can be done safely is to rig the anchor on the right and try to find a directional piece somewhere in the traverse section.
When i tried it the other day i put my anchor right in the middle but i felt like if i fell low on the route i would swing in to the ground and on the upper crux my rope would be 10 feet straight out to my left causing a dangerous swing.