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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 140 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 22, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Borrowing the naming convention from Fred Rassmussen, this route climbs better than the name implies. Stem up the clean, low angle dihedral as it steepens and then finish with nice pockets on the vertical wall. Just as you're getting warmed up and into the groove, the route ends.

Location

This is the first dihedral route just right, north, of the "orange rough wall" on the far south end of the area. Look for the words Crap on spray painted on the rock. This route goes up and left from that graffiti.

Protection

Gear on this route appears infrequent and tiny but it turns out that nice horizontal cracks on the sides of the dihedral offer opportunities for .5 and .75 camalots. A 0 or 00 C3 would fit in one spot down low in the corner of the dihedral. Two-bolt anchor at top.

Photos

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