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Routes in New New Place
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Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Crap On T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Fever Pitch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rough Wall Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thumb Action T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 35.8116, -106.1985 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 536 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on May 4, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This is the intriguing right-facing dihedral with the seam 2 lines to the left of, and facing Batshit Crack.
The best start is the unlikely face, rather than the cracks to either side (but you could use those if you like). Chill at a ledge half-way, and make a plan for how to conquer the overhanging "Heinous Dihedral", using some combination of stemming and locking off on small crimps.
A lead would involve placing crucial gear in a pretty important handhold that starts the crux sequence (we TRed it) without other gear protecting the hardest part.
Location
The overhanging right-facing corner with the seam should be obvious. Just right of the Half Moons buttress, left of Rumsey's Lead.
Photos
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