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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Sharon (Dogruel?)
Page Views: 179 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 14, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Sharon's Lead is another 5.9 climb at the NNP, but is more of a one-move wonder compared to the 5.9 cracks to its left.

Start right of the skull graffiti. Climb up and left along hand crack. Don't continue up the obvious finger crack above- that is Sharon's Sandbag (5.9). Instead, place a 3" cam, make a reachy move out right to a big ledge, cut your feet loose and mantle. Follow 5.7 cracks in a shallow dihedral from this ledge to the top.

The guidebook says the rating is disputed and potentially as hard as 5.11, which might be accomplished by a contrived (and unprotected) direct route to the mantle ledge.


This climb begins just right of the skull graffiti-glyph.


Cams to 3", and nuts. Save some gear to build an anchor at the top, or step left to the Sharon's Sandbag anchor.



More About Sharon's Lead