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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 128 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 22, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Pure Thoughts begins in the obvious shallow dihedral just right of Batshit Crack (.10b). After several 5.11 moves in the dihedral, pulling and balancing on bad feet and poor hands in the seam, the crux is gaining the top of the dihedral. Above the dihedral, conquer an interesting bulge by veering left (5.11), then tackle a featured face (5.10-) to the top.

Lots of fun with a wide variety of moves.


Most people top rope this one. 2-bolt anchor.

For the brave, the crux can be protected with <1" cams in the pod at the center of the seam... protection gets scarce up higher. Definitely deserving of an R rating.


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jamie Hamilton
santa fe nm
jamie Hamilton   santa fe nm
Lead this route the other day and I have to say I thought that it was pretty safe. The upper section is a little run out, but the climbing is easy. The hard climbing at the top of the lower corner is really quite well protected. I would not give this route an R pro rating, but some may not agree. I also top roped the arrete to the left with out using the corner. This yielded a short hard 5.12 with tricky balancing and smearing. Cool if you have run out of stuff to play on at the cliff. cheers jamie Jan 27, 2011
AFAIK, this was known as "Open Book" back in the day. Mar 22, 2009

More About Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts)

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