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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 139 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Jam and stem up parallel finger to hands cracks on less-than-vertical rock. As the cracks diverge commit to the right crack and pull up and over a block to a huge ledge. From the ledge, enjoy great laybacking up the giant flake with good feet on the face.
2-bolt anchor at the top, installed to prevent further damage to trees.

A couple of variations from the top of the twin cracks have been reported but I haven't been on them. Both go at 5.10. Either go straight up from the top of the twin cracks or go left from the top of the twin cracks.

Location

Near the very right (northern) end of the New New Place. Easily identified by the parallel cracks to start.

Protection

Doubles of Camalots from .5 to 2. A couple of #4 camalots protect the huge flake layback up higher.

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