New New Place Rock Climbing
Routes in New New Place
|Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Hard Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|GPS:||35.812, -106.199 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Aug 11, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionNew New Place is another one of White Rock's vertical basalt crags ideal for toproping or trad climbing. Some of the lines here are as long as any at White Rock (up to 60 or 70' tall) and are quite good. Most climbs are characterized by short crux sections between good rest stances or ledges. The New New Place has more 5.8 and 5.9 lines compared to some other White Rock cliffs. A few good more challenging climbs are found here as well. People have been climbing here since Steve Schum and Mike Roybal in the early 1970s.
The New New Place faces east, making it shaded in late afternoon and evenings, and somewhat sheltered from the wind. Because the cliff is not as classic as some of the others in White Rock, you're likely to find yourself alone here. Although the 5 minute approach to the clifftop is straightforward, the rocky blocky scramble down to the cliff base makes the New New Place a bad location for dogs or small children.
An list of routes with short descriptions (and a couple of errors) is found on this page of the LA Mountaineers website
A photo with routes delineated is found in "Jemez Rock", which corrected and published (with permission) the original handed down material from Guido, Jason Chen, and Walt Wehner (and others previously?) which also found its way to the LA Mountaineers website. A longtime local climber was surprised to learn one of the climbs here was named after him, so perhaps these are not the original route names, not that it matters.
Getting ThereEnter White Rock, turning at the light with the gas stations (Rover). Drive straight, staying on Rover. Turn right on Kimberly. Drive to the end, park at the cul-de-sac. Hike east for 2 minutes, to reach the cliff top, facing the Rio Grande. Scramble down to the base along blocks at either end of the cliff (the south side of the cliff is easiest).
Classic Climbing Routes at New New Place
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season