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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Elevation: 6,265 ft
GPS: 35.812, -106.199 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 11, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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New New Place is another one of White Rock's vertical basalt crags ideal for toproping or trad climbing. Some of the lines here are as long as any at White Rock (up to 60 or 70' tall) and are quite good. Most climbs are characterized by short crux sections between good rest stances or ledges. The New New Place has more 5.8 and 5.9 lines compared to some other White Rock cliffs. A few good more challenging climbs are found here as well. People have been climbing here since Steve Schum and Mike Roybal in the early 1970s.

The New New Place faces east, making it shaded in late afternoon and evenings, and somewhat sheltered from the wind. Because the cliff is not as classic as some of the others in White Rock, you're likely to find yourself alone here. Although the 5 minute approach to the clifftop is straightforward, the rocky blocky scramble down to the cliff base makes the New New Place a bad location for dogs or small children.

An list of routes with short descriptions (and a couple of errors) is found on this page of the LA Mountaineers website
A photo with routes delineated is found in "Jemez Rock", which corrected and published (with permission) the original handed down material from Guido, Jason Chen, and Walt Wehner (and others previously?) which also found its way to the LA Mountaineers website. A longtime local climber was surprised to learn one of the climbs here was named after him, so perhaps these are not the original route names, not that it matters.

Getting There

Enter White Rock, turning at the light with the gas stations (Rover). Drive straight, staying on Rover. Turn right on Kimberly. Drive to the end, park at the cul-de-sac. Hike east for 2 minutes, to reach the cliff top, facing the Rio Grande. Scramble down to the base along blocks at either end of the cliff (the south side of the cliff is easiest).

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Classic Climbing Routes at New New Place

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Have a Nice Day Yucca
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Batshit Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR
Have a Nice Day Yucca
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Batshit Crack
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in New New Place »

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Mike Sullivan
Durango, CO
Mike Sullivan   Durango, CO
The "tire art" has been removed from the canyon, so that's no longer a useful landmark. To find the top of the crag, walk east (diagonally left) from the cul-de-sac on a good trail for about 100 yards, then turn right onto another good trail for about 50 yards. You will find anchor bolts at the top of the cliffband on your left. Graffiti is visible on the boulders scattered at the base of the crag. Go a few yards further south to find a third-class scramble descent to talus that leads you to the base. May 31, 2017

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