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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 99 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

At the far right side of the New New Place, right of Twin Cracks, Hard Crack seeks out a right-facing overhanging wide hands crack which is midway up the face. You have a few choices to get up to this, none are particularly difficult or rewarding, but it is easiest coming in from blocky terrain a little to the rightt. The crux is probably easiest to lieback, and protects with a #3 camalot. The climb is not as hard after this steep section.

Location

Right of Twin Cracks.. find the right-facing overhanging offwidth 1/2 way up. Choose your variation to get there.

Protection

Cams to 3", and nuts. There may be a 2-bolt anchor at the top, or, if not, you can probably use the Twin Cracks anchors, rather than causing further damage to trees (or, build your own anchor with gear).

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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10
A little bit dirty (water-runoff?) but with a fun, strenuous crux. This is a good route to push yourself on if you aren't solid at the grade because the gear is great and the route feels a bit easier than other 10+ cracks in White Rock. Nov 26, 2009