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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Roger Rumsey
Page Views: 144 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 19, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - All Los Alamos/White Rock climbing areas closed due to Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Another 10 worth climbing at the NNP.

Get into the overhanging hand crack, followed by a good rest. Head up an unprotected section over the bulge on slopers directly above; or, better yet, step left, make a weird move back right onto a ramp; (or begin the entire climb as for Batshit Crack and traverse left above this- variation 10 in photo). Enter a shallow dihedral with a thin crack. This has enough small gear placements to keep it safe. When you reach the finger crack, you're through the crux.

Location [Suggest Change]

This climb is about 10' left of Batshit Crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Nuts and cams to 3".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top.

Photos

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
A #000 C3 protects the awkward undercling bulge move from the left pretty well. It's still at your feet when you're pulling over it but the fall would be pretty clean I think. Aug 21, 2008

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