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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Roger Rumsey
Page Views: 124 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 19, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Another 10 worth climbing at the NNP.

Get into the overhanging hand crack, followed by a good rest. Head up an unprotected section over the bulge on slopers directly above; or, better yet, step left, make a weird move back right onto a ramp; (or begin the entire climb as for Batshit Crack and traverse left above this- variation 10 in photo). Enter a shallow dihedral with a thin crack. This has enough small gear placements to keep it safe. When you reach the finger crack, you're through the crux.

Location

This climb is about 10' left of Batshit Crack.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
A #000 C3 protects the awkward undercling bulge move from the left pretty well. It's still at your feet when you're pulling over it but the fall would be pretty clean I think. Aug 21, 2008