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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 75 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Thumb Action is a fun toprope problem up the prow just left of Phone Booth, with a thin face section about 15' or 20' up. This crux is basically unprotected as far as I can tell from toproping- you can get some small gear below the roof to your right but it's going to be far enough below you to get your attention. Tricky smears and sharp sidepulls or two finger crimps to get through the crux. Next, step left to a slick right-facing corner, which is harder than it looks for a few moves, then you're in an easier shallow open dihedral with an obvious stacked block (shared with Phone Booth) to get to the top.


This is the face climb up a small prow just left of Phone Booth


Standard rack: 1 set cams, 1 set nuts, including RPs.

Build your own anchor at the top. This climb can also be toproped from the 2-bolt anchor for Phone Booth.


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