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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 38 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 616 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A short and nicely protectable gear lead for those breaking into traditional leading. Quite possibly White Rock's best introductory gear lead thanks to great protection and fun climbing.

Start up blocky terrain to a large flake sticking out of the crack. Stem a bit in the slight dihedral and work up towards the small roof above. Near the roof, step right onto the face and finish up the face. 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top.

Location

Near the far left (south) end of the crag. As you approach from the south, pass the orange, textured wall. Pass a clean, low-angle dihedral that looks hard to protect. Unknown 5.6 is the line just past this clean dihedral. (Note the clean dihedral looks fun but I haven't heard anything about it being climbed.)

The start of this route has a scratched/painted number "69" on the rock.

Protection

Medium to large cams and medium to large nut opportunities abound.

Photos

Steven Reneau  
5.7
Similar in difficulty to Beginners 5.7, to right. Feb 28, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
Chris, you are correct. I have corrected the location. Thanks for catching that. I also added some more details about finding this route. Aug 20, 2008
Couple of committing moves at the bottom, but gear opportunities are everywhere. There's an excellent spot for a BD #4 if you want to carry one up. Aug 19, 2008