Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Steve Schum and Mike Roybal probably
Page Views: 848 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Clearly the best line at the NNP, Batshit Crack is the most continuously sustained crack here. Don't be discouraged by the name- it's nowhere near as shitfilled as some at WR. It begins as moves requiring hand jams to a short section moving into a body-size flare that has less than ideal protection. Above, a steep hand crack section is probably the well-protected crux. 10-15' of 5.9 OW finishes the climb.

Liebacking is a good substitute for technique on this climb.

Location

Batshit Crack is the obvious crack in the left-facing corner at the tallest central part of the New New Place.

Protection

1 set cams up to a #4 camalot.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top.

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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10b
Liebacking is a fine technique on its own, man. :) Aug 19, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
I think the crux(es) occur in the bottom half - off-fingers, more dynamic reaches, and weird face moves. The crack up high was pretty secure and comfy for my hand size and the OW doesn't demand pure OW technique most of the time. Mar 19, 2017