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Routes in New New Place

Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Crap On T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thumb Action T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Steve Schum and Mike Roybal probably
Page Views: 833 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Clearly the best line at the NNP, Batshit Crack is the most continuously sustained crack here. Don't be discouraged by the name- it's nowhere near as shitfilled as some at WR. It begins as moves requiring hand jams to a short section moving into a body-size flare that has less than ideal protection. Above, a steep hand crack section is probably the well-protected crux. 10-15' of 5.9 OW finishes the climb.

Liebacking is a good substitute for technique on this climb.


Batshit Crack is the obvious crack in the left-facing corner at the tallest central part of the New New Place.


1 set cams up to a #4 camalot.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top.


- No Photos -
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Liebacking is a fine technique on its own, man. :) Aug 19, 2009
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
I think the crux(es) occur in the bottom half - off-fingers, more dynamic reaches, and weird face moves. The crack up high was pretty secure and comfy for my hand size and the OW doesn't demand pure OW technique most of the time. Mar 19, 2017

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