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Have a Nice Day Yucca
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 10
votes
Routes in New New Place
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Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Crap On T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Fever Pitch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rough Wall Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thumb Action T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,350 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
Your Star Rating:
Description
The next crack system left of the Twin Cracks is an excellent and well-protected 5.8 or 5.9 climb.
Two options begin this climb, both are finger crack size, starting just right of the yucca bush, moving off the obvious flake along a crack to the right or left of a block. Both starts are about the same difficulty, but the left start is called 'the Easy Start' because it can be used to avoid the crux of Phone Booth also. The right start is more usual because it is directly under the anchor and the upper dihedral system. Regardless of which you choose, both options are 5.8+. Midway up, you reach a good rest, and enter a dihedral with a wide crack in the back where most will stem and chimney using small edges on either wall. This is the mental crux of the route.
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