Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,350 total · 9/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The next crack system left of the Twin Cracks is an excellent and well-protected 5.8 or 5.9 climb.

Two options begin this climb, both are finger crack size, starting just right of the yucca bush, moving off the obvious flake along a crack to the right or left of a block. Both starts are about the same difficulty, but the left start is called 'the Easy Start' because it can be used to avoid the crux of Phone Booth also. The right start is more usual because it is directly under the anchor and the upper dihedral system. Regardless of which you choose, both options are 5.8+. Midway up, you reach a good rest, and enter a dihedral with a wide crack in the back where most will stem and chimney using small edges on either wall. This is the mental crux of the route.

Location

This climb is right of Phone Booth and left of Twin Cracks, on the right side of the New New Place, behind the yucca bush.

Protection

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top

Photos