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Have a Nice Day Yucca
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 10
votes
Routes in New New Place
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Avalauncher TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Batshit Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beginner's T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Crap On T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Fever Pitch T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Flare T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Half Moons (aka Clockwork) T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Hard Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Have a Nice Day Yucca T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Phone Booth T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rough Wall Right T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rumsey's Lead T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sharon's Lead T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sharon's Sandbag T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thumb Action T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Twin Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unnamed T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,328 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020
Details
On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Description
The next crack system left of the Twin Cracks is an excellent and well-protected 5.8 or 5.9 climb.
Two options begin this climb, both are finger crack size, starting just right of the yucca bush, moving off the obvious flake along a crack to the right or left of a block. Both starts are about the same difficulty, but the left start is called 'the Easy Start' because it can be used to avoid the crux of Phone Booth also. The right start is more usual because it is directly under the anchor and the upper dihedral system. Regardless of which you choose, both options are 5.8+. Midway up, you reach a good rest, and enter a dihedral with a wide crack in the back where most will stem and chimney using small edges on either wall. This is the mental crux of the route.
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