Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jim Adair
Page Views: 9,435 total · 70/month
Shared By: nickv on Feb 25, 2008 with updates from Ben Hoste
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

120 Opinions

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details


Steep face moves to a 10 foot finger to thin hand crack, face holds lead to top.


Far left side of the wonder wall (facing the ocean)


There is no pro after the crack. Nuts and small cams with protect before that.
Fixed anchor on top.


DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
DB Cee   Chattanooga, TN
true there is no gear after the crack...but the climbing eases off to 5.8. there is some good gear placing beta that makes the climbing much easier. Mar 2, 2008
Matt Swartz
Camper van on the road.
Matt Swartz   Camper van on the road.
One of the best climbs at Otter, do it. Apr 28, 2009
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
Spent two days climbing in Acadia on my vacation and this was by far the best climb here. We just TR'd lines at Otter, but it was fun and scenic and this route was the cherry on top. Great movement, just wish it was twice as long! Jul 12, 2009
adam wibby  
I snaked a nut in the wall after the crux half way to the top, in a right facing crack to the right of a block, but it was more to be an ass to my second... mwa ha ha Aug 17, 2009
There is a bomber stopper placement after the crack and more gear if you look for it. Although it is a little run out at the start on moderate ground, the protection on this route is excellent as is the climbing. With some creativity, the protection rating is closer to "G". Nov 11, 2012
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
Don't miss this one! One of the best climbs I've ever done. Oct 2, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
  5.10b/c PG13
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
  5.10b/c PG13
Onsighted this in 1983 wearing EBs and dragging straight-sided stoppers and hexes. Toproped it about 25 years later and had to hang once. Jeepers!!!!!! Still plenty fit in middle-age (perhaps even fitter), but forgot how to use my feet (as if there are any feet at the crux). One of the best routes in Acadia! Aug 18, 2014
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
One of my favorites at this cliff and a great climb to lead. It protects well compared to others at Otter. The crux takes great gear and for those concerned about the top you can get a solid nut in after the crux from a decent rest as Chris pointed out. It felt G to PG to me. Jul 7, 2015
Benjamin Mitchell
5.10c PG13
Benjamin Mitchell  
5.10c PG13
This is a great climb and it can be a fairly safe lead if you take the time to look for smaller, less obvious placements. I found a great .1 X4 placement to help protect the section between the end of the crack and the top out. Nov 6, 2017
jessie briggs
jessie briggs  
This really doesn’t feel much harder than 5.9. Maybe a move of .10b? With the right sequence it flows so well. One of the best in Acadia for sure! May 11, 2018