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Routes in Otter Cliffs

Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Adair by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barnacle Baits TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brochure Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chockstone Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gallery Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gallery, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Chimney, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Inner Sanctum TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maine Central TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mermaid TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystic, The TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out to Sea TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Outer Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Plaque Crack TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Lobster TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seabreeze TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+
Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Staircase TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Starfish TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
State of Maine TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swing Time TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wounderwall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jim Adair
Page Views: 9,101 total · 71/month
Shared By: nickv on Feb 25, 2008 with updates from Ben Hoste
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

Steep face moves to a 10 foot finger to thin hand crack, face holds lead to top.

Location

Far left side of the wonder wall (facing the ocean)

Protection

There is no pro after the crack. Nuts and small cams with protect before that.
Fixed anchor on top.

Photos

DB Cee
Chattanooga, TN
DB Cee   Chattanooga, TN
true there is no gear after the crack...but the climbing eases off to 5.8. there is some good gear placing beta that makes the climbing much easier. Mar 2, 2008
Matt Swartz
Camper van on the road.
 
Matt Swartz   Camper van on the road.
 
One of the best climbs at Otter, do it. Apr 28, 2009
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
 
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
 
Spent two days climbing in Acadia on my vacation and this was by far the best climb here. We just TR'd lines at Otter, but it was fun and scenic and this route was the cherry on top. Great movement, just wish it was twice as long! Jul 12, 2009
adam wibby  
 
I snaked a nut in the wall after the crux half way to the top, in a right facing crack to the right of a block, but it was more to be an ass to my second... mwa ha ha Aug 17, 2009
There is a bomber stopper placement after the crack and more gear if you look for it. Although it is a little run out at the start on moderate ground, the protection on this route is excellent as is the climbing. With some creativity, the protection rating is closer to "G". Nov 11, 2012
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Don't miss this one! One of the best climbs I've ever done. Oct 2, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.10b/c PG13
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.10b/c PG13
Onsighted this in 1983 wearing EBs and dragging straight-sided stoppers and hexes. Toproped it about 25 years later and had to hang once. Jeepers!!!!!! Still plenty fit in middle-age (perhaps even fitter), but forgot how to use my feet (as if there are any feet at the crux). One of the best routes in Acadia! Aug 18, 2014
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.10b
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.10b
One of my favorites at this cliff and a great climb to lead. It protects well compared to others at Otter. The crux takes great gear and for those concerned about the top you can get a solid nut in after the crux from a decent rest as Chris pointed out. It felt G to PG to me. Jul 7, 2015
Benjamin Mitchell
5.10c PG13
Benjamin Mitchell  
5.10c PG13
This is a great climb and it can be a fairly safe lead if you take the time to look for smaller, less obvious placements. I found a great .1 X4 placement to help protect the section between the end of the crack and the top out. Nov 6, 2017
jessie briggs
  5.9
jessie briggs  
  5.9
This really doesn’t feel much harder than 5.9. Maybe a move of .10b? With the right sequence it flows so well. One of the best in Acadia for sure! May 11, 2018

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