Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Ed Rombach & Tom Wezwick
Page Views: 44 total, 0/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Unnamed Right is clearly the bastard step-child of "Unnamed Left" and "Unnamed Middle". Of course, UL & UM were twins, which would make any offspring of the two the sinful spawn of an incestuous relationship. That explains why Unnamed Right is so inferior.

Anyway, this route is cursed with a thick layer of moss, surely the result of little sun exposure, which ironically makes this route all the more tempting to summer climbers. The route ascends an ok slab to an awkward series of gastons and enjoyable funkery, that ultimately deteriorates completely into a fingertip crack and scary move getting to the anchor.

Location

Immediately right of the brown arete of "The Blade", or two routes right of "Unnamed Middle", or immediately left of Handsome Parish Lady.

Protection

Bolts to 2 BA.

Photos

If I am correct...............Ed Rombach and I put this up when we had the canyon all to ourselves.......back when the dino...sors ruled! we thought 11b.......... Oct 11, 2010
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.11a
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.11a
I definitely didn't find that clip hold! Super desperate anchor clip for me. The route was good fun, and I'd like to think it's harder than 11a because of the beatdown it gave me, but the truth is that I just need more practice on this type of terrain. Sep 3, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.11b
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.11b
Fun climb; thought this one would be easier in looking at it from the ground, but found the top to be pretty tough. Maybe I was just tired. Good clipping holds may be found about 15" beyond the lip of the roof. May 17, 2008
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
Aside from the intermittent moss, I don't think this route is so bad. The holds are generally really good, but they require long, gymnastic moves between them. The crack at the top is a bit funky. Oct 9, 2007