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Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Leslie Coon?
Page Views: 60 total, 0/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Another excellent, long Eagle Canyon face climb. This line faces slightly more north than its twin "Unnamed Left", so it receives more shade, and so is a bit mossy-er. Despite the slightly less than ideal stone, this route offers a rope-stretching pitch of great climbing capped by an intimidating roof.

Begin by scrambling up the ramp-like dihedral. Head up the steep slab to a technical crux around the 4th and 5th bolts. A timely jaunt onto the right arete provides some key relief before veering back left. The final roof can be surmounted directly on good pockets, or its possible to traverse left around it, depending on your preference.

Location

Immediately right of "Unnamed Left", or two routes right of Manhattan.

Protection

10 bolts, shares the anchor with "Unnamed Left".

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11c
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11c
I thought this route was stellar. Never thought the moss was a problem and if I remember correctly, this thing is super sustained on great stone. Mar 5, 2010
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
I believe this route is called "Top Hat." Sep 5, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
There is an independent anchor for this climb, 4' up and right of the "Unnamed Left" anchor, which probably makes it a little bit easier to clean but it really doesn't make any difference which anchor you use.

I added the FA info to this route and "Unnamed Right", which someone told me, but wasn't 100% sure about it, so correct me if I'm wrong. Aug 30, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Only 10 bolts, and I thought the crux was between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it is pretty sustained all the way. Aug 22, 2008