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Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Leslie Coon
Page Views: 92 total · 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This brilliant line climbs nearly 100 feet of pristine pockets, knobs and edges. Begin by scrambling with difficulty up to the exposed, slopy ledge below Manhattan. Best to leave your belayer on the ground, which is doable if you have a 60m rope. Stick clip the first bolt, and traverse right onto the cinnamon colored scoop. Surmount the cruxy bulge near the right arete, then move back left onto the faces. An endless sea of pockets and knobs continues upwards. Around mid-height a series of shallow scoops appears on the left. Its possible to climb into these scoops, but they offer no respite, and exiting these features is awkward and difficult. Best to stay right.

Location

Immediately right of "Manhattan".

Protection

13 bolts and 2 BA. Bring a lot of draws and a stick clip for the first bolt.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11b
We started from the ledge up left towards "Manhattan" and didn't use a stick clip for the first bolt. It's not too bad to do this but blowing the first clip wouldn't be good. If you have a stick, use it. Oct 14, 2007
Dave Wachter  
 
Excellent sustained climbing. Mostly just less than vertical, so you can get some decent rests (at the expense of sore toes, if you're using good pocket-climbing shoes). Rock seemed solid enough when dry, but I've heard it can be crumbly for a while after it rains. Several of the bolt hangers down low are spinners, which can be disappointing if you're trying to hang draws at full extension! Jul 11, 2009

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