Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Leslie Coon
Page Views: 111 total · 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This brilliant line climbs nearly 100 feet of pristine pockets, knobs and edges. Begin by scrambling with difficulty up to the exposed, slopy ledge below Manhattan. Best to leave your belayer on the ground, which is doable if you have a 60m rope. Stick clip the first bolt, and traverse right onto the cinnamon colored scoop. Surmount the cruxy bulge near the right arete, then move back left onto the faces. An endless sea of pockets and knobs continues upwards. Around mid-height a series of shallow scoops appears on the left. Its possible to climb into these scoops, but they offer no respite, and exiting these features is awkward and difficult. Best to stay right.

Location

Immediately right of "Manhattan".

Protection

13 bolts and 2 BA. Bring a lot of draws and a stick clip for the first bolt.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11b
We started from the ledge up left towards "Manhattan" and didn't use a stick clip for the first bolt. It's not too bad to do this but blowing the first clip wouldn't be good. If you have a stick, use it. Oct 14, 2007
Dave Wachter  
 
Excellent sustained climbing. Mostly just less than vertical, so you can get some decent rests (at the expense of sore toes, if you're using good pocket-climbing shoes). Rock seemed solid enough when dry, but I've heard it can be crumbly for a while after it rains. Several of the bolt hangers down low are spinners, which can be disappointing if you're trying to hang draws at full extension! Jul 11, 2009