Eagle Canyon Rock Climbing
|GPS:||35.718, -106.385 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
In the height of summer this crag receives sun until about 1100am. On cooler fall and spring days, a small amount of sun hits the wall in the morning before the shade hits.
The bulk of the routes are on the South side of the canyon, but there are about 4 routes on the North sides of the canyon (3 moderates, and the 5.13 "Nikita"). The North cliff has the same aspect as the rest of the Cochiti cliffs, so these routes receive morning shade and afternoon sun.
The cliff on the South side of the canyon can be easily divided into two sections by a narrow "tunnel" that separates the cliffs between the routes Turkey Baster and Manhattan. This passage offers X-rated (dangerous, not pornographic) access between the two halves. Its also possible (and strongly advised) to use the cliff base trail system to move between the cliffs.
The above approach is probably the best option for most users, but there is now a new approach option for those headed to the western most routes (the routes near Bunga Bunga). This "trail" is hard to follow and requires walking through an abundance of shrubbery, but it is fast. Continue up the road a bit. The road will get very steep, turn to the left, then switchback to the right. You will drive through a narrow cleft, and then the road turns hard left again. Park in this area. From the left switchback, an abandoned road grade climbs a steady slope to the NW. Follow an intermittent trail along this road for about 5 minutes, at which point pink flagging should appear to the right. Follow this flagging in a bushwhacking fashion to the top (W) end of Eagle Canyon. This 'trail' should deposit you just above the route Didgemaster. Good idea to wear long pants for this approach.
Routes (From Left to Right)
Maalox Moment (5.11a)
Killer Bee (5.9+)
Indecent Insertion (5.12b)
New Wave (5.11c)
Old Wave (5.9)
Tutti Frutti (5.11a)
After the second trail cut off, routes 10 and 11 are on the left side of a tunnel. One can also access these climbs by continuing down and to the right of the tunnel, then walking back up and through it.
Jug Abuse (5.12a)
Turkey Baster (5.10c)
After the right side of the tunnel
The next climbs continue after the base trail meets with the trail along the crag.
Unnamed Left (5.11b)
Top Hat (5.11c)
The Blade (5.12a/b)
Unnamed Right (5.11a)
Handsome Parish Lady (5.13a)
Climbs 18-22 are accessed by continuing up the trail past climb #17, then taking a left branch trail back up and left toward the crag.
E Plurbus Cruxi Unam Pumpus (5.11b)
Omdulation Fever (5.12c)
Are You Lichen It? (5.11c)
Continue on the main trail to access climbs 23-25.
Earth Monster (5.11d)
Psycho Thriller (5.11c)
After a break in the crags, you will see climb 26. Climb number 30 is accessed by continuing to the end of the crag and walking around and up.
The Wrong Mr. Wong (5.8)
Ego Maniac (5.11c)
Mr. Wong's Zipper (5.10b)
Bunga Bunga (5.12a)
Directly across the canyon, there is a small gully. There are 4 additional climbs here. Again, climbs are listed from left to right as you face the crag.
Black Streak (5.10c/d)
Nikita (5.13) Climb is ~100 left of Hanging the Dog
Hanging the Dog (5.11b)
Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Canyon
Days w Precip