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Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 6,772 ft
GPS: 35.718, -106.385 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

This is Cochiti's "summer crag" offering more shade than other Cochiti crags. There are roughly 30 routes, many of which are in the 5.10/11 range, making this a good crag for intermediate climbers. Routes here tend to be longer than at the Mesa, with one excellent line featuring 13 bolts. Eagle Canyon is also home to Cochiti's hardest route, the excellent test piece Didgemaster.

In the height of summer this crag receives sun until about 1100am. On cooler fall and spring days, a small amount of sun hits the wall in the morning before the shade hits.

The bulk of the routes are on the South side of the canyon, but there are about 4 routes on the North sides of the canyon (3 moderates, and the 5.13 "Nikita"). The North cliff has the same aspect as the rest of the Cochiti cliffs, so these routes receive morning shade and afternoon sun.

The cliff on the South side of the canyon can be easily divided into two sections by a narrow "tunnel" that separates the cliffs between the routes Turkey Baster and Manhattan. This passage offers X-rated (dangerous, not pornographic) access between the two halves. Its also possible (and strongly advised) to use the cliff base trail system to move between the cliffs.

Getting There

Follow driving directions as for Cochiti Mesa, but park at a big switchback in the road where a sign marks the "Dome Wilderness Trail". Park here but follow a climber's trail that branches off left from the Dome Trail within 20 feet of the parking area. The trail heads West for about 50 feet, then turns right and contours along a steep slope for several hundred yards, before turning left (W) into the mouth of Eagle Canyon. Continue up the mouth of the canyon for 5 minutes until the cliffs are visible on the left. Several poorly-defined trails lead up to various points along the cliff-base.

The above approach is probably the best option for most users, but there is now a new approach option for those headed to the western most routes (the routes near Bunga Bunga). This "trail" is hard to follow and requires walking through an abundance of shrubbery, but it is fast. Continue up the road a bit. The road will get very steep, turn to the left, then switchback to the right. You will drive through a narrow cleft, and then the road turns hard left again. Park in this area. From the left switchback, an abandoned road grade climbs a steady slope to the NW. Follow an intermittent trail along this road for about 5 minutes, at which point pink flagging should appear to the right. Follow this flagging in a bushwhacking fashion to the top (W) end of Eagle Canyon. This 'trail' should deposit you just above the route Didgemaster. Good idea to wear long pants for this approach.

Routes (From Left to Right)

The first 9 routes are accessed from the first split off on the Eagle Canyon trail.

Kona (5.12a)
Pepto-Dismal (5.11c/d)
Maalox Moment (5.11a)
Wannabee (5.11c/d)
Killer Bee (5.9+)
Indecent Insertion (5.12b)
New Wave (5.11c)
Old Wave (5.9)
Tutti Frutti (5.11a)

After the second trail cut off, routes 10 and 11 are on the left side of a tunnel. One can also access these climbs by continuing down and to the right of the tunnel, then walking back up and through it.

Jug Abuse (5.12a)
Turkey Baster (5.10c)

After the right side of the tunnel

Manhattan (5.10c)

The next climbs continue after the base trail meets with the trail along the crag.

Unnamed Left (5.11b)
Top Hat (5.11c)
The Blade (5.12a/b)
Unnamed Right (5.11a)
Handsome Parish Lady (5.13a)

Climbs 18-22 are accessed by continuing up the trail past climb #17, then taking a left branch trail back up and left toward the crag.

E Plurbus Cruxi Unam Pumpus (5.11b)
Racist Fantasy (5.12a)
Accrojovia (5.12b)
Omdulation Fever (5.12c)
Are You Lichen It? (5.11c)

Continue on the main trail to access climbs 23-25.

Earth Monster (5.11d)
Psycho Thriller (5.11c)
Bananarama (5.10c)

After a break in the crags, you will see climb 26. Climb number 30 is accessed by continuing to the end of the crag and walking around and up.

The Wrong Mr. Wong (5.8)
Ego Maniac (5.11c)
Mr. Wong's Zipper (5.10b)
Bunga Bunga (5.12a)
Didgemaster (5.13c?)

Directly across the canyon, there is a small gully. There are 4 additional climbs here. Again, climbs are listed from left to right as you face the crag.

Black Streak (5.10c/d)
Nikita (5.13) – Climb is ~100’ left of Hanging the Dog
Hanging the Dog (5.11b)
Unnamed (5.11)

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
According to a couple of posts in this 2012 forum thread, at least one person has climbed there post-Las Conchas 2011 fire and another said it "looked fine". Oct 23, 2017
kinz Davis
Albuquerque, NM
kinz Davis   Albuquerque, NM
Is this area climbable anymore or did it also getting destroyed in the fires? Oct 23, 2017

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