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Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Duran
Page Views: 287 total, 4/month
Shared By: WAGbag on Apr 24, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The well defined rounded arete starts off with some fun pockets on either side of the arete, heel hooks, and a relatively obvious sequence. Then it changes mood and turns into a maze of tiny pockets that are nearly impossible to discern without a previous dusting of chalk (a common condition it appears for this crag). It is possible, though not easy, to step left and gain a no-hands rest, but probably best to stay on the arete until you hit the horizontal break - then it's 5.7 from there.

Location

Obvious bolted arete with a bolt down low to keep the belayer from falling out of the gully.

Protection

7ish bolts and shares anchors with Killer Bee

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
On my OS / flash I ended up all over the ledge and subsequent no-hands rest as it was the only good hold around and my less than perfect sequence took me over that way. Haven't decided yet if the route was meant to go over there or not, probably not as the FA seemed to make an effort to keep the bolts around the corner. So the purer and better way is probably to stay on the arete.

3 stars for the super cool and unique starting moves. Apr 25, 2011