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Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 42 ft
FA: Ed Rombach & Tom Wezwick
Page Views: 87 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 14, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski

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Access Issue: June 1, 2018 - The entire Santa Fe National Forest closed to access due Stage III Fire Restrictions Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Decent climbing on good pockets and suspect flakes, this is the easiest bolted route in the canyon. Get on it to warm up and get a feel for the rock and the rock quality on the rest of the routes will feel awesome!

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the fifth bolted route from the start of the routes as you walk up-canyon. It climbs left of a blunt, rounded arete of sorts left of some large huecos and dishes. It starts from a ledge that one must scramble up to.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor on a nice ledge. Note that all guidebooks state 7 bolts to anchors but unless there are two down lower below the obvious ledge where we started, there are only 5 bolts on this route.

Photos

Dave Wachter  
 
There's one suspect flake around the second or third bolt. It's a side pull out left, and sounds hollow if you knock on it.
  • **So don't yard on it, leave it alone** (duh).
If you use the fairly obvious holds to the right of the flake (straight above the stance from which you contemplate grabbing it), you'll enjoy a quality 9+/10- crux. The rest of the holds are fine, and it's a good climb. Aug 26, 2009

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