Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jean DeLataillade, (extension: John Duran)
Page Views: 1,541 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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This is a fine route in an idyllic, secluded canyon. The stone is excellent and it hasn't suffered the erosion that other popular Cochiti routes like Touch Monkey and Gunning for the Budda have over the years. The route is also uncommonly steep, with big, positive holds.

Start on some steep (for Cochiti) jug hauling up good, incut pockets. The route soon rolls over onto a slab and so begins the crux section, with a few hard pulls on shallow, slopey pockets with technical feet. There is a long span between the 2nd and 3rd bolt that could lead to a groundfall, if your belayer isn't paying attention.

After the slab, the wall quickly steepens again, so you'll be forced to fight the pump to the top as long moves between good pockets don't allow for very good rests. It seemed only sporting to me to avoid the arete's on either side of the panel.

Rumor has it there is an optional variation to head right near the top on a gradually windening splitter crack. I don't reckon that will see too much action from kids these days.


South Wall of Eagle Canyon, right (west) of the tunnel, up high in a protected alcove. It climbs the overhanging right wall of a square cut column.


bolts and two bolt anchor


There is a variation to this route which extends it by about 35feet. A few feet before you reach the anchor go right and up on a steep pocketed face past 3 bolts (I think...). This extension is 12b by itself, since there is a rest before you commit to it, it doesn't change the rating, just makes it longer and more fun. I believe this extension was bolted and done first by John Duran. Jul 30, 2008