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Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jean DeLataillade, (extension: John Duran)
Page Views: 1,469 total, 12/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fine route in an idyllic, secluded canyon. The stone is excellent and it hasn't suffered the erosion that other popular Cochiti routes like Touch Monkey and Gunning for the Budda have over the years. The route is also uncommonly steep, with big, positive holds.

Start on some steep (for Cochiti) jug hauling up good, incut pockets. The route soon rolls over onto a slab and so begins the crux section, with a few hard pulls on shallow, slopey pockets with technical feet. There is a long span between the 2nd and 3rd bolt that could lead to a groundfall, if your belayer isn't paying attention.

After the slab, the wall quickly steepens again, so you'll be forced to fight the pump to the top as long moves between good pockets don't allow for very good rests. It seemed only sporting to me to avoid the arete's on either side of the panel.

Rumor has it there is an optional variation to head right near the top on a gradually windening splitter crack. I don't reckon that will see too much action from kids these days.

Location

South Wall of Eagle Canyon, right (west) of the tunnel, up high in a protected alcove. It climbs the overhanging right wall of a square cut column.

Protection

bolts and two bolt anchor
Jean  
There is a variation to this route which extends it by about 35feet. A few feet before you reach the anchor go right and up on a steep pocketed face past 3 bolts (I think...). This extension is 12b by itself, since there is a rest before you commit to it, it doesn't change the rating, just makes it longer and more fun. I believe this extension was bolted and done first by John Duran. Jul 30, 2008