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Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 369 total, 4/month
Shared By: Dave Wachter on Jul 11, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Take this description with a grain of salt, because I only thrashed up the route in poor form on toprope. I don't normally submit route descriptions for climbs I haven't redpointed, but I did work all the moves, and feel like some description is better than none...
  • **Anybody who's actually climbed this thing and is willing to review it, please let me know, and I'll take my description out. I can't vouch for the 12c difficulty, as I don't normally get on climbs of that level in this style (but I can say that the moves feel ridiculously harder than 12a and 12b pocket routes I've climbed in NM).**
Having said all that, here's my description:

The fun starts (and soon ends) on pockets which disappointingly decrease in size and quality as the route steepens to slightly over vertical. Work your way up into a dishy narrow face with an arete just to the left of the bolt line, and pull (hard) on shallow mono- and 2-finger pockets with minimal feet (pop, pop, pop!). As the angle eases mid-climb, the pockets become nearly useless depressions. Finish on easier moves once you reach the horizontal seam at the last bolt (shared with "Are You Lichen It?"). Clips seem desperate.
In all fairness, I tried this route on a wicked hot summer day (though in afternoon shade) - may be more fun and less of an ass-kicker in crisp fall temps.

Location

In the alcove, next to "Are You Lichen It?" (see that route description).

Protection

Bolts to 2 eye-bolt anchor (shared with "Are You Lichen It?," which comes in handy for rescuing draws).

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