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Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 82 ft
FA: Ed Rombach, Tom Wezwick
Page Views: 93 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This excellent route climbs a heavily featured slab of high-quality rock for a rope stretcher pitch. The route does unfortunately suffer from seasonal runoff, so many of the larger pockets tend to fill with dirt from time to time.

Begin with a tricky scramble to an exposed, sloping ledge just right of the access tunnel. Scramble up and left behind the sappy pine tree. Head straight up the dark wall, occasionally using the cracks on either side.

Location

The first route right of the access tunnel.

Protection

Many bolts, 2 BA.

Photos

Dave Wachter  
 
Thanks for the anchor overhaul! Great job! I feel SO much better climbing this route now, knowing that I won't have to risk another epic dealing with a stuck rope! Sep 8, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Young and I added screwlinks a screwlink to each chain. Now the rope won't twist when you rappel, but the anchor still could use a total overhaul.

Great route, especially up past the 4th bolt. Felt very stiff for the grade (even by Cochiti standards), but maybe I was tired (or more likely, I'm just not very good). 5th clip was tough for me. Aug 8, 2009
Dave Wachter  
 
Agree with Jason - had to hike up and rescue a rope that stuck on the anchors when we tried to pull it. The climb is Fantastic, though. Continuous 10c edges, up a beautiful little nook among trees. Feb 26, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10c
If anyone cares to, the anchor on this could use some help. It consists of two hangers each with only one screw link on it. This means the links lay parallel to the rock, rather than perpendicular, which twists the rope even if you rappel and pull it. Definitely don't lower through those--your rope will be screwed!
Either one more screw link on each bolt/hanger or, better yet, some stainless steel carabiners. Oct 14, 2007