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Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ed Rombach and Tom Wezwick
Page Views: 113 total, 1/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Aug 20, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is a thin finger crack and seam that contains a couple of small pods that splits a blank looking lichen covered vertical face, that boasts some classic Cochiti movement while using questionable traditional placements in softer rock(like most Cochiti crack climbs). Start up a slab with crappy gear to the vertical section and better gear to begin the business. Stepping off of the slab to the vertical business is considered the crux, while the grade remains consistent most of the way up. There is one good rest before the exit moves to a natural belay. There are some crafty gear placements to be had on this route. This one is a stiffy and is worthy of some bolted anchors.

Location

This route is located left around the corner from Bunga Bunga, and about 30' to the right of Ego Maniac. Not to be confused with The Wrong Mr. Wong(to its left).

Protection

Small to medium stoppers, triples from .33"- #1 Camalots, 1-#2 Camalot, runners, and a # 3 and #4 Camalots to back up the boulder belay at the top. Rap off of a rope slung around the boulder down the north side where the Didgemaster sits.

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