Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Jean de Lataillade, 1991
Page Views: 2,224 total, 17/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This stellar route is the ultimate Cochiti test piece. Established by French strong man Jean Delataillade in 1991, this route has not seen a second ascent, and probably hasn't been attempted in at least 10 years.

Originally graded 5.13c, this route might be even harder. It's only 30 feet long, but it's all business from the moment you leave the ground. It's similar in style and difficulty to Child of Light at Enchanted Tower, but much more tweaky and techy (though not as shouldery). There's a large hole at the 2nd bolt that might qualify as a rest, but otherwise this is a mad dash for the chains.

You will need a great deal of finger strength, but it's not as tweaky as you might think. There are two mono moves, both for the right hand. However, you will likely find yourself limited more by ring-finger strength.

This is easily the steepest route at Cochiti, with an exciting, dynamic bulge crux.

Location

At the very top of the canyon on the South side. This is the first route you come to if you use the "new" approach beta.

Protection

4 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor. Recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt. Stick clipping the first bolt is mandatory. Clipping the 4th bolt on lead is tricky.

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
I'll second that comment Geoff!! Of all the years I lived in New Mexico, the only time I almost got tagged was in Eagle Canyon...lots of brush and the snakes like to sun themselves on the trail. Yikes. Well worth watching where you step though, because Eagle Canyon is a beautiful place to climb. Mar 5, 2010
Geoff Sluyter
  5.13c
Geoff Sluyter  
  5.13c
Thanks for the great photo! I did the route in 2000 and thought the grade was fair. Eagle Canyon is a beautiful place to climb. I nearly steeped on the biggest rattle snake i have ever seen there!
Geoff Dec 28, 2006