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Routes in Eagle Canyon

Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Racist Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Wezwick, Rombach
Page Views: 1,480 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dave Wachter on Jul 10, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start is fairly mellow, up to a low ledge and good rest. Power over a small roof, then fun moves up the arete. Second crux comes about 2/3 of the way up, when you move onto the narrow face to the right of the arete. Great sustained climbing with interesting movement from the time you leave the ledge to the anchors.

Location

Continue up the river bed past Manhattan and the alcove with The Blade, Handsome Parish Lady, E Pluribus..., etc. Bananarama goes up a striking arete and narrow face on the far side of the alcove. It's the last climb before the major concentration of climbing ends, except for Bunga Bunga and Didgemaster, which are located just around the corner, on a side canyon that leads up left to the mesa top.

Protection

8 or 9 bolts to slightly rusty 3-chain anchor - could use replacement, especially since this excellent route is worthy of a lot of traffic.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Easily the best 10 I've done at Cochiti, though admittedly I haven't done many. I especially enjoyed the upper section above the cruxy roof where I meandered back and forth between two aretes. 8 bolts, I believe. Aug 29, 2009

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