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Routes in The Melting Mud Wall

AltaTraz S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Public Nuisance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinistar S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: 8/25/03 Tyler P, Greg M
Page Views: 1,154 total, 9/month
Shared By: Greg Martinez on Sep 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Stay on the trails Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

UP HIGH

Location

CLIMB RIGHT OF PILLAR

Protection

14 BOLTS & CHAINS 60 METER ROPE BUT 70 RECOMMENDED

Photos

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RPariser  
 
Great, sustained, LONG line! There is some crumbly rock at the bottom and beware of rock fall from the top. I pulled off two softball sized chunks the other day and while I was climbing a huge rock came down from the top near my belayer. Aug 13, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11
Lose weight, send route, suggest grade.

Edit: bumping this to 2 stars and down to 5.11ish. The crux is less sequential than the 11b to the right but thinner and comes after a lot more climbing. No choss to speak of this time, things are cleaning up. Sep 25, 2011
The lower half of this is absolute choss. I've never sent so much rock down on my belayer before... And took a pretty good whipper when a hold broke. The upper half is pretty decent, but there is no way its 11+ as listed on the guide. 11a sounds more like it, but thats the general theme with the newer Hellgate climbs, overated and chossy. Sep 22, 2011
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c PG13
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c PG13
Very fun climb with tiny finger pockets and thin feet. The crux for me was just below the juggy section at the top.

Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites.

--BETA SPOLIER--
I ended up using a tiny protruding crystal as a foothold to deadpoint to a high pocket at the upper crux. Good shoes can make a significant difference on that hold Aug 13, 2010
tenesmus
  5.11a
tenesmus  
  5.11a
Boissal is right, the bottom half of this is terribly dirty but the upper half is actually really fun thin .11a climbing. On the middle slab you can actually get monos with each hand. I'd never done that before and its pretty cool. Climbs like Ibex. Aug 9, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11
Decomposing uber-choss (almost of doom!) through the first 4 clips, barely redeemed by a never ending sequence of long moves to smallish holds higher up. Thin crux with a nice exposed feeling.

If you send it with a threatening curtain of rain rolling in then showering your ass while lightning hits the top of the towers you get to put it as an 11c on you 8a scorecard... Jul 17, 2009