Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: 8/5/03 Tyler P
Page Views: 1,820 total · 13/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Sep 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details
Access Issue: Stay on the trails Details


The climbing on the dark grey rock is cool and kinda funky edging and positional climbing. Then a sandy roof requiring an attentive belayer ready for a soft catch. The last third of the climb has really fun pocket and edge climbing on some of the best rock up there. The last third more than compensates for the middle so keep your head down and persevere.


This is the 2nd line right of Sinistar and the right-most line in the alcove on the heavily featured headwall. 


13 bolts and chains


Backed off the “sandy roof” after literally pulling apart the rock and taking an unanticipated ride – the sandy section gets my vote for the chossiest section on any of the routes on Melting Mud. It didn’t help that I could see exposed shaft under the hanger of the bolt protecting what looks to be the crux. Enjoyable climbing to there, though, and someone thoughtfully put a screw-link on the bolt before the sandy section and left a bail-biner on the next bolt below, so little cost if you want to see for yourself. Jun 8, 2012

hmm? i've done this route numerous times in the last few years and i've never had an issue. that shaft has been exposed for as long as i can remember; i always thought if it were to pull, there is another bolt just a few feet below that will catch you. Jun 9, 2012
Okay, I might have been having a weanie episode, but the rock really did disintegrate. I'll try to suck it up and get back on it soon. Any idea how long those bolts are? Jun 11, 2012
I totally believe that. This could have been the route that inspired the name of the crag. Jun 11, 2012
Mr. Hummus
SLC, Utah
Mr. Hummus   SLC, Utah
I really agree with John that the'sandy roof' feels pretty sketchy. Would have liked to get the on-site but I also had a weanie episode and had to talk myself into hanging on that sandy side pull to clip that hanger, despite being able to see the shaft of the bolt under the hanger and wondering if the hanger was previously flush with the rock or if the bolt is coming out.
At any rate, I did it and the climbing gets much better after those five or six moves through all the sand.
Route is not very sustained. I thought I might have got on the wrong route until I hit the overhang. Pretty easy beginning section up to the white sandy overhang. The moves through the overhang are pumpy because you overgrip every move because it's all so sandy. Overall good route, but I doubt that overhang will ever clean up and not be sandy. Jul 25, 2012
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
Total crap! Probably the chossiest line I've ever been on. Several holds broke and I felt like every hold I was on past the roof would break. That being said it was kinda fun. Aug 11, 2012
John you didn't have a "Weenie Episode".
That roof is complete choss.
I've done it twice.
The first time I nearly killed my belayer with a rock I knocked off under the roof and yet years later I did the route again.... hmmmm
It's too bad because after you pull the sandy beach the climbing is quite good. Jul 30, 2013
This route is bad. I would not recommend to anyone. The roof is this super sandy rock. It makes it scary and not fun. I doubt it's an "it'll clean up" situation either, i think it's just bad rock. IMO, this route should not have even been bolted once the quality of this rock was discovered. Sep 10, 2013
kalockwood   SLC, UT
A very chossy route. Rock quality is horrible. Do this route if you're looking to have a bad time and want to get sand in your eyes. Sep 10, 2013
I lol'd at the two buddies ^^^^^^ harden up boys! Jun 22, 2015
Todd H
Sandy, UT
Todd H   Sandy, UT
The upper section itself felt pretty sustained, and it remained a little sandy and brittle to the chains. When I got back down my partner was still laughing about the "clouds of sand" that he saw puff out each time I moved my feet at the roof section. Embrace the septic death and you might really enjoy it. Aug 9, 2015
  5.12a PG13
  5.12a PG13
Tried this route today as it was the last one I hadn't tried at East Hellgate. This route starts off great through the lower black rock. It is slightly dangerous when you get to the sandy roof though. At the crux, I pulled off a 2ft, by 1 ft, by 1ft chunk of rock today which my belayer narrowly avoided.(It missed him by a few inches as he dodged out of the way.) This is by far the largest chunk of rock I've pulled off on a route. The piece that got pulled off may have made the route more difficult, it was a large ledge I was using for my feet when extending to grab the sandy slopers at the first attempt. When I retried it was much more difficult on worse feet and my partner was sketched out so I bailed. As others have noted the rock has eroded around the shaft of the bolt at the sandy part of the crux, and it looked a little rusty. The route is probably still mostly safe since Greg bolts so safely(Which I love), but just be careful and cautious of rockfall while attempting this route. Oct 16, 2015
New route just to the right of this one. Study Break 5.11+/5.12a starts at the third bolt and then breaks right up a face, bulge and entertaining headwall with 9 new bolts to finish at the last bolt and same anchor. M. Berzins and J.Lake 5/30/18 May 30, 2018
One further comment. This route starts about 20 feet right of Sinistar NOT just right. The line in between is a new route with a very fresh but not particularly difficult lower wall leading to a crux bulge (5.12a?) and a great finish up the top part of Sinistar. Jun 14, 2018