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1st Tram
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 18
votes
Routes in The Melting Mud Wall
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1st Tram S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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1st Tram Direct Start (aka Alta Girls Have Cute Mustaches) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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AltaTraz S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Antidote S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bird Is the Word, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Brain Doner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cotton Mouth King S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dayglow Abortions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Go Pogo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Los Crudos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Martinez Mind Melter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Melting Bird, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Melting Into Madness S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Minor Threat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pogo Punk S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Public Nuisance S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rat Bastards S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Repeat and Offend S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Septic Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinistar S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Study Break S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wisky Bench S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 40.58991, -111.64385 |
| FA: | Greg Martinez, Andrew Verge |
| Page Views: | 1,203 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Cassidy Thomas on Sep 9, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: Stay on the trails
Details
Description
Start on Melting into Madness and start veering right after the third bolt. The first bolt as this line breaks to the right is only a couple feet to the right of the 4th bolt of Melting into Madness, the line continues to move up and to the right, distancing itself from the Melting into Madness bolt line. After splitting off from Melting into Madness, the route takes you up a thin face before easing up towards the top. The face is of similar difficulty when compared to Cotton Mouth but the climb isn't as sustained as Cotton Mouth.
I tentatively put Greg M and Andrew V as the first ascent on this since they did many of the routes on the wall, including the routes immediately to the left and right of this one. I had seen the grade .10c suggested by a few other climbers, but I'm not sure on the FA's stated grade. If anyone can confirm some of this information or provide some new information on this route (such as a name) just comment or shoot me a PM and I'll adjust the information accordingly.
5 Comments