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Routes in (i) The Fourth Horseman

Calamity Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack Of Infinity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Equineimity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Friday's Jinx T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headless Horseman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
John Galt Line S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pack Animal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack Animal Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snuffy Smith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taiwan On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tuff It Out S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,382 total · 9/month
Shared By: ScottH on Mar 1, 2006 with updates from Byron Igoe and 1 other
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Description

Taiwan On tackles the arete just left of Pack Animal Direct. Viewed from the base of Pack Animal and nearby routes the arete is dramatic feature, and looks incredibly sharp. The climb starts up the vertical face on the right side of the arete. Swing around to the left side when you run out of features, then back to the right side a little higher. Transitioning from one side to the other can be tricky. The crux comes near the top of the face, connecting crimps to pull onto the slab above the face before an easier run to the anchor.

Protection

Vertical bolts connected by one chain with one rap ring on the lower bolt for anchor.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
A nice tick if in the neighborhood, but nothing spectacular. Apr 18, 2007
BSwett
Bend, Or.
 
BSwett   Bend, Or.
 
Tricky freakin' climb. Apr 13, 2011
Phildlm  
I found this to be one of the better 10c's in the park. Watts gives it 3 stars and I'd agree. Fun, good location, easily accessible, unique route on an arete. Oct 14, 2016
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Climbing on the left side of the arete for the first 3 bolts is awkward and detracts from an otherwise good route. It's possible head left after the last bolt and link into Headless Horseman for a nice long pitch. About 14 bolts total, consider extending the first bolt you clip on Headless with a long sling, lower to the ground with a 70m. Beware your belayer won't be able to see you for most of Headless. Dec 4, 2016
Franck Vee
  5.10c
Franck Vee  
  5.10c
Interesting moves swinging from one side to the other of that arrete. The rock above decreases in quality which takes away a bit of the quality of the climb.

Fun moves, but quality-wise a little short, great positioning. I'd give it 2.5/3 stars out of 4. Not an easy 10c, but well protected by Smith's standard. Jul 12, 2017
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10c
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.10c
Fun arete route! Tricky getting to first bolt. There are bomber holds to the left but you can’t see them as you are moving over to the arete then come back right to clip with a not so bomber hold. I stick clipped and recommended it as there are boulders on the ground below. The most fun move was on a pocket hold on the left of arete that you use palm down then flip to palm up as you rise above and use it to clip the bolt. After 5th bolt move up and over onto slab where belayer can’t see you anymore. Climbing eases. Then very easy climbing from last bolt to anchor. Jul 25, 2018

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