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Routes in (i) The Fourth Horseman

Calamity Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack Of Infinity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Equineimity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Friday's Jinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headless Horseman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
John Galt Line S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes (Start) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pack Animal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack Animal Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snuffy Smith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taiwan On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tuff It Out S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Thomas & Mike Smelsar 3/77
Page Views: 3,246 total · 22/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route

39 Opinions

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Excellent climb.
Start up the corner on the right side of the Horseman (right of Gull line left of Friday Jinx) the traverse under the roof is obvious. move left under roof (crux)and follow shallow corner above for another 45 feet after the traverse.


lots of wires and tcu's


Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
I brought three .3s and was super happy about it. Apr 4, 2016
Calamity Jam is great...maybe the best gear protected climb on tuff I've done at Smith. On par with Wartley's for quality, in my opinion.

A lot of people won't care but doubles in middle-sized nuts might be nice if you like to have quick & easy protection. A 60m rope will just get you down if you're using the fixed anchor.

Chad Aug 31, 2015
Bend, OR
CritConrad   Bend, OR
Yikes! thinner than expected, and LONG! May 3, 2012
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
This thing is SO fun!! The fixed wire in the crux is starting to look a little manky... Scary lead, but so rewarding!! Mar 8, 2012

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