Type: Sport
FA: Erik Wolfe
Page Views: 2,393 total · 15/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

64 Opinions

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A few pocket/edge moves lead to some challenging moves involving long reaches between good edges. Near the top, a tricky section pulling though a small bulge on pockets and edges leads to an easy finish. This is a newer route not in the Watt's guide.


Just right of Pack Animal Direct (trad dihedral).


Bolts. Rap Anchor.


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the depths of oregon
corvegas   the depths of oregon
I belive the FA was done by Eric Wolfe Feb 18, 2007
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
You are correct. Nice to see some stars.

I originally rated this .10d cuz it wasn't any harder than Hemp Liberation - LOL!

--Erik Nov 5, 2008
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
I liked this route mainly because I felt that it doesn't climb like most of Smith... of course, perhaps I just didn't do it right.
Really good line. Feb 17, 2010
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
Thankfully it was upgraded... basing ANY 5.10 grade off Hemp Liberation would be a HUGE sandbag!! That thing is ridiculously hard for a "5.10" Mar 8, 2012
another Chad
another Chad  
Small update to the description above. This route is in the latest edition of the guidebook.

I enjoyed JGL up to the point that I had to clip the bolt above the roof. Either I didn't follow the first ascentionist's path or that bolt is in a funky location.

Chad Apr 27, 2016
Benjamin James
Benjamin James  
After talking to some locals it sounds like maybe a hold broke in the lower crux, making it easier. Not sure, and please correct me if I'm wrong. Either way, it felt comparable to Moons of Pluto or Headless Horseman, both 10d. Whatever you call it, it's a seriously fun route with far less grease than Magic Light, Zebra direct, etc. Don't bother climbing the 3 bolts that are above the initial anchor. Sketchy hangers, Worse rock, tedious moves, and an uninspiring anchor await. May 7, 2016
Anchor has been replaced and is fairly new. It's 5.10a nubbins for the last three bolts. The crux IMO is actually getting to the roof. It's delicate and technical. Then getting past the roof is pumpy albeit not as technical, and clipping at the roof is from a good hold.

If we rate everything according to the easiest route in the park of that grade, then this would be a 10d. Which is ridiculous. Anywhere else this is an 11b. So we split the diff and go with an 11a. This is about the same difficulty as Magic Light (11a) and that grade seems to have stuck for decades. Nov 14, 2016