Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (i) The Fourth Horseman

Calamity Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack Of Infinity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Equineimity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Friday's Jinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headless Horseman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
John Galt Line S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes (Start) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pack Animal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack Animal Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snuffy Smith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taiwan On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tuff It Out S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Erik Wolfe
Page Views: 1,975 total, 14/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


52 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A few pocket/edge moves lead to some challenging moves involving long reaches between good edges. Near the top, a tricky section pulling though a small bulge on pockets and edges leads to an easy finish. This is a newer route not in the Watt's guide.

Location

Just right of Pack Animal Direct (trad dihedral).

Protection

Bolts. Rap Anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Phildlm
5.11a
Phildlm  
5.11a
Anchor has been replaced and is fairly new. It's 5.10a nubbins for the last three bolts. The crux IMO is actually getting to the roof. It's delicate and technical. Then getting past the roof is pumpy albeit not as technical, and clipping at the roof is from a good hold.

If we rate everything according to the easiest route in the park of that grade, then this would be a 10d. Which is ridiculous. Anywhere else this is an 11b. So we split the diff and go with an 11a. This is about the same difficulty as Magic Light (11a) and that grade seems to have stuck for decades. Nov 14, 2016
Benjamin James
  5.10d
Benjamin James  
  5.10d
After talking to some locals it sounds like maybe a hold broke in the lower crux, making it easier. Not sure, and please correct me if I'm wrong. Either way, it felt comparable to Moons of Pluto or Headless Horseman, both 10d. Whatever you call it, it's a seriously fun route with far less grease than Magic Light, Zebra direct, etc. Don't bother climbing the 3 bolts that are above the initial anchor. Sketchy hangers, Worse rock, tedious moves, and an uninspiring anchor await. May 7, 2016
another Chad
  5.11b
another Chad  
  5.11b
Small update to the description above. This route is in the latest edition of the guidebook.

I enjoyed JGL up to the point that I had to clip the bolt above the roof. Either I didn't follow the first ascentionist's path or that bolt is in a funky location.

Chad Apr 27, 2016
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
Thankfully it was upgraded... basing ANY 5.10 grade off Hemp Liberation would be a HUGE sandbag!! That thing is ridiculously hard for a "5.10" Mar 8, 2012
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
I liked this route mainly because I felt that it doesn't climb like most of Smith... of course, perhaps I just didn't do it right.
Really good line. Feb 17, 2010
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
You are correct. Nice to see some stars.

I originally rated this .10d cuz it wasn't any harder than Hemp Liberation - LOL!

--Erik Nov 5, 2008
corvegas
the depths of oregon
corvegas   the depths of oregon
I belive the FA was done by Eric Wolfe Feb 18, 2007