Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (i) The Fourth Horseman

Calamity Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack Of Infinity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Equineimity S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday's Jinx T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Headless Horseman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
John Galt Line S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
No Golf Shoes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pack Animal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pack Animal Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snuffy Smith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taiwan On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tuff It Out S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: F.F.A. Jeff Thomas, Jack Callahan, 4/7/74
Page Views: 2,376 total · 19/month
Shared By: JohnK on Jun 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

34 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Ascend the protectable crack (5.5) then make a tricky traverse to an old fixed pin. Another tricky move to easier moves to a small ledge belay. The second pitch follows the sweet right-facing dihedral past a small roof (5.8) to the top.


On the Fourth Horseman next to Pack Animal Direct.


Gear to 2.5 inches.


- No Photos -
awesome warm-up and worth the hassle of placing gear if done in a single pitch. i got to the top of the first pitch, and realized id only used twenty meters or so of rope, so i linked into the second.
it's fun, varied, clean, and has only one section of challenging gear placement (1st pitch). i shouldnt say that, because i did not clip the fixed pin (looks fresh and solid), or the retro-bolt above. the pin looked like rope drag city, and i had just fiddled in a #4 bd nut in the tricky gear section when i then found and ignored the bolt. if you clipped both of these with long runners, i suppose you might not even have a thin, tricky placement or rope drag.
put long runners on everything, and downclimb to unclip the first bolt (on ledge) once you have the second clipped.
the moves and rock make this a great moderate. the only thing that leaves a bad taste is the top belay, which is shockingly uncomfortable. someone recently placed a bolt above and right - i didnt see it until we were done - so use this to make the belay more comfortable.
when done as a single pitch, its long as hell - i would use a 70m if you want to be able to lower (didnt do this, we topped out and rapped off elsewhere), and Tie a Knot in the belay end of the rope. i cant guarantee that a 70 will get you to the ground from the top anchor, but you should be able to improvise. Nov 22, 2008
Bend, Or.
BSwett   Bend, Or.
I linked the awesome 5.8 top pitch by starting on the Taiwan On arete, (hardest 10c in the planet @##&). A lot more fun than the sketchy 5.5 start. Rappelled fine with a 70m. Tie knots though! Apr 13, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
The fixed pins that previously protected the thin crack on P1 are now gone. There is a decent medium-small nut placement in the lower part of the crack, and a great placement for a teeny-tiny nut a bit higher... too small to really trust though. Best bet is to clip that bolt out to your right. May 1, 2011
This goes very nicely as one long pitch using a 70, you could probably do it with a 60 and a little easy simuling. May 7, 2012
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
Note the fixed pins on the first pitch are gone. As even if you clip the Headless Horseman bolt it is still R. The first chance for pro after the traverse is up a bit in the corner It takes a very small Rock Stopper (#1 or 2). About 2 meters above that is a bolt (Taiwan On route). Use it! Soon after that is the anchor. If you feel the need to protect the 5.5 approach, you probability should not lead this; the route between the bolt on Headless Horseman to the bolt on Taiwan On is long, runout, 5.8 and is not to marginally protected. Feb 28, 2015
What is the rappel situation for getting off of Pack Animal?

BSwett, I agree that Taiwan On is unusually hard for a 5.10c. Then again, Reason To Be seems abnormally hard for a 10d so maybe my arĂȘte technique stinks.

Chad Aug 31, 2015
Frank F
Bend, OR
Frank F   Bend, OR
You can do two raps with a 60m rope to descend the route if no one is coming up behind you. Both belay stances are well bolted. Or, as stated, a single rap with a 70m rope. Nov 6, 2015
Kevin Schaffer
Corvallis, Or
Kevin Schaffer   Corvallis, Or
I did this climb on 9/23/18 in one pitch and it was one of the better climbs I have done at smith. Although, I was expecting straightforward anchors at the top of the second pitch. When I got to the top there were two studs without hangers right above the crack where you would expect the anchor. There were two sets of anchors back and climbers left that allowed me to belay my follower up, but with small swing potential, and neither of these anchors had rap chains or rings. We opted to walk over to the cinnamon slab anchors instead of leaving cord or biners. Maybe I missed something, but I would not expect to be able to rappel the second pitch unless hardware has been replaced or added. Oct 16, 2018 · Temporary Report

More About Pack Animal