Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dean and Paul Fry
Page Views: 2,190 total · 16/month
Shared By: ferrells on Dec 14, 2008
Admins: Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Smith Rock CLOSED for COVID-19 Details

Description

With an ominous description in the Watt's guide about decking and hospital trips, this route was not at the top of my to-do list. But after several trips of not being able to find an open bolted route to warm up on, we brought the rack, and found this route. It was better than expected, but not as good as Pack Animal.

I linked the pitches with a 70m rope. What I found was a stiff first pitch (I mistakenly did the Infinity Variation, 10-, the real approach pitch of Friday's Jinx is better.) with poor rock and not great gear. The top pitch, however, was great - a long, fairly technical dihedral. There are actually some moves on this thing! The gear and rock are good on the second pitch. For someone looking to warm up for the dihedral on Zebra Zion, this pitch would be a good way to do it.

Unfortunately, the chains are too high to allow a single rappel with a 70m rope. This made for a much less pleasant outing. If anyone is up for placing lower anchors, it would be nice to not force the climber to ascend the last 20-40 feet of chossy crap, and allow a rappel (and slingshot belay) with a 70.

Location

Right of Infinity Crack in the Four Horseman, and left of the two 5.10s.

Protection

Set of nuts, cams from yellow alien to #3 camalot. You could bring an extra #2 camalot.

Photos