Avg: 2.5 from 24 votes
Routes in (i) The Fourth Horseman
|Calamity Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Crack Of Infinity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Equineimity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Friday's Jinx T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Headless Horseman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|John Galt Line S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|No Golf Shoes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|No Golf Shoes (Start) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Pack Animal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pack Animal Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Snuffy Smith S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Taiwan On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Tuff It Out S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||Dean and Paul Fry|
|Page Views:||1,515 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||ferrells on Dec 14, 2008|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionWith an ominous description in the Watt's guide about decking and hospital trips, this route was not at the top of my to-do list. But after several trips of not being able to find an open bolted route to warm up on, we brought the rack, and found this route. It was better than expected, but not as good as Pack Animal.
I linked the pitches with a 70m rope. What I found was a stiff first pitch (I mistakenly did the Infinity Variation, 10-, the real approach pitch of Friday's Jinx is better.) with poor rock and not great gear. The top pitch, however, was great - a long, fairly technical dihedral. There are actually some moves on this thing! The gear and rock are good on the second pitch. For someone looking to warm up for the dihedral on Zebra Zion, this pitch would be a good way to do it.
Unfortunately, the chains are too high to allow a single rappel with a 70m rope. This made for a much less pleasant outing. If anyone is up for placing lower anchors, it would be nice to not force the climber to ascend the last 20-40 feet of chossy crap, and allow a rappel (and slingshot belay) with a 70.
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